44 



AMERICAN FORESTRY 



If the tar is found to be too thick in cold weather, it 

 may be thinned down by mixture with some creosote. 

 Some persons use paint in place of tar; but the latter is 

 preferable because it does not peel in course of time as 

 paint does and possesses better antiseptic qualities than 

 paint. 



QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 



Q. How may I tell whether my tree is ailing? 



M. B. M., Plainfield, N. J. 



A. So much depends upon the special local conditions 

 that it is difficult to set up any series of symptoms. But 

 in a general way the layman may surmise trouble when 

 he finds any of the following conditions: Pale leaves 

 in summer time when they should be perfectly green. 

 This may indicate an excess of foreign gases or salts. 

 Dead tops indicate root trouble and fungous growths 

 protruding anywhere from the trunk or branches indi- 

 cate decay underneath. Withered leaves show growth or 

 inability to take in the requisite amount of water, though 

 the water may be present in the soil. 



Q. What trees and shrubs will stand the shade? 



L. A. F., Sewickley, Pa. 



A. Beech, hemlock and dogwood are best suited for 

 that purpose. The maples will also tolerate considerable 

 shade, but the beech and hemlock will stand very deep 

 shade. 



The following shrubs will be found suitable for plant- 

 ing in the shade of other trees: Blue Beech, Juneberry 

 ( Amalanchier botrapium), Spice Bush, Azalia Nudi- 

 flora, Red Berried Elder, Vib Urnum Pruni folium, Vi- 

 burnum Alni folium, Viburnum Cassi Nodes, Viburnum 

 Acerifolium, Sweet Pepperbush, Witch Hazel, Mountain 

 Laurel, Rhododendrons. 



Q. When shall I prune my fruit trees? 



A. L. C, Nashville, Tenn. 

 A. In March. 



Q. What pruning tools do I need for my 12-acre 

 estate? A. K., Joplin, Mo. 



A. Two small, single edged hand saws, 1 pole saw, 1 

 pole shears, 1 30-foot extension ladder with hickory rungs, 

 1 12-foot single ladder with hickory rungs, 1 lineman's 

 belt, 1 pole brush for tarring wounds high up on the 

 trees, 1 small brush for tarring small wounds lower down, 

 1 heater, to heat the tar, 1 -}4-inch chisel, 1 y 2 -'mch gauge, 

 1 mallet, 1 keg refined coal tar, 5 gallons creosote to mix 

 with the tar. 



Q. How far apart shall I plant Norway maples in front 

 of my house on the city street? 



C. C. J., Worcester, Ma.ss. 

 A. Thirty to thirty-five feet apart. 



Q. Have you had any experience in clearing weeds 

 from a lake or pond in which the depth of water varies 

 from two to five feet? E. S. P., Buffalo, N. Y. 



A. Take Portland cement and throw broadcast on the 

 water, quite thickly, twice within one week and once 



again in a month or six weeks. This will look white on 

 the surface of the water for a while, but in a few hours 

 i r . sinks, leaving the water thoroughly clear. 



Q. What is the best spray for the cottony scale, and 

 when should it be applied? Is winter spraying ever 

 advisable? W. W. M., Rogers Park, III. 



A. The cottony maple scale can be sprayed effect- 

 ively with a ten per cent solution of kerosene emulsion 

 in early June, at the time when the young appear. A 

 forcible spray of water will often dislodge the cottony 

 masses and scale. On small trees, brushing off the 

 insects with brooms dipped in kerosene emulsion has 

 often worked well. 



Q. Why is the English practice of root pruning on 

 fruit trees growing strongly to tops, but not bearing fruit 

 a help to increase the amount of fruit, if at all? 



W. W. M, Rogers Park, III. 



A. The practice of root pruning fruit trees for the 

 purpose of increasing the fruit product is a very good 

 one, especially in old trees where the main roots have 

 been allowed to grow at the expense of the fibrous root- 

 lets. In connection with this work I would suggest that 

 you thin out the crown and cut it in quite severely. 



Q. Do you advise the use of asphaltum after pruning 

 and as a wound dressing? 



W. W. M., Rogers Park, 111. 



A. I have never used asphaltum for covering roots, 

 and on general principles would prefer a refined coal 

 tar which I know from experience as having the pene- 

 trating and antiseptic qualities required for protection 

 against fungous attack. If your coal tar is too thick, 

 you might thin it down with a refined grade of creosote. 



Q. I am building a residence located on a hill, or butte, 

 about 1200 feet long and 600 or 700 feet wide at the base. 

 I wish to cover the hill with some low-growing, hardy 

 bushes with compact tops, something that will never grow 

 high and which will thrive without much water and cover 

 the hill fairly well so as to amount to a jungle or thicket. 

 Or, I may conclude to plant grape vines to cover the 

 entire hill, if advisable. The top of the hill is a graded 

 plateau about 180x250 feet in area and this I will cover 

 with that rich and always handsome forage plant, alfalfa. 

 Over against this hill, which is a detached elevation 

 standing by itself at the mouth of a broad canyon, I 

 intend to make a spread in the way of California poppies. 

 It will be a "field of the cloth of gold." I shall greatly 

 appreciate a list of the shrubs and vines which will be 

 likely to thrive on my "oblong hill," bearing in mind that 

 they must be dry-climate plants, not requiring any excess 

 of water. H. G. O., Los Angeles, California. 



A. The coral berry Symphoricarpos vulgaris would 

 probably be as satisfactory a plant as any to use on your 

 hillside. This plant roots from the tips of the branches 

 and spreads quite rapidly. It will attain a height of 3 or 

 3J/2 feet and succeeds well in dry soils and under adverse 

 conditions. Ampelopsis of some species or variety, or some 

 of the nearly related Vitis or grapes could be successfully 



