362 



Barbery 

 Rosa Rugosa 

 Ribes 



AMERICAN FORESTRY 



Ligustrum Ovalo folium, 

 Ligustrum Vulgare and 

 Red-stemmed Dogwood 



In some cases evergreens are used, but these are not 

 generally advisable because they will not stand the dust 

 and abuse of the average city street, as well as some of 

 the shrubs mentioned. 



ADVICE FOR JUNE 



1. Destroy nests of tent caterpillars. Use torches, or 

 kerosene, or spray. 



2. Remove trees hopelessly infested with borers before 

 the end of June, if you have not already done so. This 

 only applies to cases which are so badly infested that 

 treatment for the individual insect would be a hopelesr. 



task. 



3. Spray for elm-leaf beetle in the early part of June. 



4. Spray for red spider with tobacco solution, or fish- 

 oil soap, in early June. 



5. Cultivate, mulch and water newly planted trees and 

 shrubs. 



6. When blossoms have nearly fallen, spray apple 

 and pear trees with Bordeaux mixture. Add three pounds 

 of arsenate of lead to every fifty gallons of this spray 

 for leaf-eating insects. 



7. If aphis appears on elm, etc., spray with fish-oil 



soap. 



QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 

 Q. Two years ago I planted fine large specimens of Austrian 

 and other pines around my residence in this city. These were 

 obtained from the Hicks Nurseries, Westbury, L. I. Last spring, 

 and now this spring, the yellow-bellied sap-suckers, a variety 

 of woodpecker, have attacked some of these trees and are prac- 

 tically girdling them. Several of the trees, if not killed, will 

 at least be badly devitalized. I write to ask if you have had 

 any experience with these destructive birds and if you can sug- 

 gest anything to be done, both preventive and remedial. 



C. H. L., Buffalo, AT. Y. 



A. The woodpecker and other birds very commonly attack 

 pine and other trees, through the bark in the method you de- 

 scribe, but it has been our experience that it never injures the 

 trees seriously. In fact, in many cases the trees are benefited 

 because the birds are almost always seeking insects, particularly 

 the boring insects, which they dig out and eat. In the case of 

 your pines especially you need not be greatly concerned, unless 

 of course there is a very unusual condition, because the gum 

 that exudes from pine trees immediately takes care of the 

 wound, keeping out both disease and* insects, and protecting it 

 until it heals of its own accord. 



Q. We would be pleased to have you advise us what is the 

 best solution for spraying trees in this section of the State, 

 such as Silver Maple, Norway Maple, and the ordinary trees 

 that grow in this section as well as apple, pear, plum, etc., and 

 what time the spraying should be done. 



W. F. T., Ulica, N. Y. 



A. The question is put in such a general way that no definite 

 answer can he given, because different insects require different 

 sprays, and also require the sprays to be applied at different seasons 

 of the year, depending on how early or late the young of the 

 various insects emerge and crawl. As a general rule, all leaf- 

 eating insects must be sprayed with arsenate of -lead at the rate 

 of one pound to ten gallons of water. All sucking insects, such 

 as would be apt to affect the fruit trees, must be sprayed with 

 oi' emulsion, such as lime sulphur solution, kerosene emulsion, or 



fish-oil soap. These solutions must be used with great care, and 

 the strength of the solution will depend upon the individual 

 insect to be attacked, and the particular season. If a specimen 

 of the infested twig, or any particular problem is presented to 

 us we can answer that particular question with greater definite- 

 lu-ss and prescribe just exactly what to do. 



There is another class of insects which I have not mentioned, 

 and those are the boring insects, and in fruit trees they can best 

 be handled by digging them out with a knife. In other trees, 

 like the maples, they can be treated by an injection of carbon 

 bisulphide, and in oaks, hickories, etc., they can only be eradi- 

 cated by destroying the infested trees before the beetles emerge. 



Q. We are developing several tracts of land, but are un- 

 decided as to the best method of laying out our streets, that is 

 with respect to the position of our sidewalks and trees. The 

 plans in question are as follows: 



Original plan : Thirty (30) foot roadway, four (4) foot tree 

 lawn between sidewalk and curb, four (4) foot sidewalk, and 

 house fifteen (15) feet from the sidewalk. Planting in the 

 space provided, or two feet from the curb line, would place the 

 trees twenty-one (21) feet from the houses or thirteen (13) 

 feet from the porch line. 



Suggested plan: Thirty (30) foot roadway, four (4) foot 

 sidewalk, adjacent to curb and house nineteen feet from the 

 sidewalk. Planting trees two (2) feet inside the sidewalk 

 would place them seventeen (17) feet from the houses, or nine 

 (9) feet from the porches. 



We are not in favor of placing the sidewalk so close to the 

 street, as mentioned in the suggested plan, and our original plan 

 seems to be the better from every point of view. Not wishing 

 to permanently mar the beauty of our tract and realizing our 

 need of assistance, we are therefore seeking your good advice 

 in this matter. D. R. G., Bethlehem, Pa. 



A. Your original plan seems to me to be the best from every 

 point of view. The trees being in their natural locations with 

 plenty of room for growth, the appearance of the street would 

 be far more uniform than the suggested plan. 



Q. I have a small elm about 2 inches in diameter which has: 

 been barked. One of the small limbs was injured and when 

 it was broken a strip of bark was torn down the trunk about 

 % of an inch wide and 15 or 18 inches long. I will, of course,, 

 cut off the broken limb, but how should I treat the barked 

 trunk? A. P. F., Bridgeport, Conn. 



A. Cut off the rough edges of the torn strip of bark, removing 

 it completely, so as to leave a clean, smooth edge of tight live 

 bark. Cut this so that the upper and lower ends of this per- 

 pendicular wound taper, as this will facilitate the healing 

 process. Never square such a wound at the top and bottom. 

 Then cover your exposed wood within the wound with a coat of 

 coal tar. Apply this with a small hand brush, neatly and 

 carefully so that it will not drip over the bark of the tree,, 

 and be sure to see that every bit of exposed wood is covered. 

 Such treatment should in time heal the wound and new bark 

 will gradually cover the break. 



Q. Can you give me information on tree-growing at the sea- 

 shore. I have tried for three years, unsuccessfully, to have 

 trees grow. I used the Carolina poplar and the Oriental plane. 

 Am within, say, 200 feet of the ocean. On side protected 

 by house trees grow well. On side unprotected have had no 

 success at all, the trees having the appearance of being seared 

 or burnt by lire. When planted they were all well developed. 

 Can you suggest any species of tree, or give me any advice or 

 suggestions to help in making trees grow where evidently Nature- 

 never intended they should. W. N., Atlantic City, N. J. 



A. In the first place, I think you would find the Red oak 

 the best and most durable species for planting on your ocean 

 side, with Scarlet maple as a second choice. The Red oak is-. 

 a quick grower and a very beautiful tree, and if you secure the 

 trees from the Hicks Nurseries, at Westbury, L. I., N. V., 

 and they are handled by the Hicks men, I think you would be 

 safe in using trees from 15 to 20 feet high, but you will under- 

 stand these large trees should only be planted and handled by 

 experts. If you are planning to have the work done under 

 private supervision, it would be much wiser to use the smaller 

 trees. The soil should be rich with well rotted manure and 

 bone dust the richer the better and the trees should have- 

 judicious watering. Perhaps the species you used before were 

 not hardy enough or the soil conditions were not right. For 

 hardy shrubbery I would suggest the Rosa rugosa, Rosa nitada, 

 Spirea thunbergii and Van Houttei, tamarisk and privets. 

 These last two are particularly good for your location, some- 

 times thriving even where washed by the surf. 



