ORNAMENTAL AND SHADE TREES 



623 



mation is also noted block by 

 block. Provision is made in the 

 card to note any special condi- 

 tions, as cavity work, insect 

 trouble or other deficiencies. A 

 glance at the card will show that 

 all this information is recorded 

 separately for each block, but one 

 card is sufficient for an entire 

 street of ten or twelve blocks. 

 For convenience of management 

 and operation, the city may be 

 divided into five, ten or twenty 

 sections, according to age classes, 

 business districts and various 

 grades of residential sections. 



Figure 2 shows the ruling of 

 card for section totals and a simi- 

 lar one may be used for the grand 

 total of the city. Where the 

 trees average 250 per mile one 

 man may be expected to run four miles in an eight-hour 

 day without rushing. The same type of card may be used 

 in the field and in the office ; the office work of transferring 

 the data to clean cards takes barely a tenth of the time 

 of the field work. The big argument in favor of this 

 method is the relative low cost of securing all the infor- 

 mation of real use. With such a census on hand an 



NOTES: 



THE CARD FOR SECTION TOTALS 



Fig. 2. By the method used at Mount Vernon, New York, one man may be expected to make a census of 

 1000 trees in an eight-hour day, when they average about 250 trees to the mile. 



approximate financial estimate of the entire stock of trees 

 may be easily computed by reference to a table of values 

 based on sizes and species. Such an inexpensive census 

 can be well afforded by any city undertaking municipal 

 management of the tree problem and will be found to 

 give real service. 



ADVICE FOR OCTOBER 



1. Prune all dead branches. The advantage of doing 

 this work now before the leaves fall is because one 

 can distinguish the dead from the live better at this 

 time than in winter; because one can climb better now 

 than in the winter when the trees are covered with ice 

 and snow; because the branches are not so brittle and 

 also because the trees will now suffer much less from 

 bleeding, etc. 



2. Take care of all wounds. Use coal tar and creosote 

 to cover all exposed wood, and be sure to remove 

 all decayed and diseased wood in the treatment of the 

 wounds. 



3. Destroy nests of the fall web-worm. 



4. Fertilize with well-rotted manure all weak trees 

 and evergreens. 



5. Spray for scale insects, but before doing this de- 

 termine the character of the insect and receive specific 

 instructions as to the strength of the solution and 

 what materials to use, as well as the best time for doing 

 the work. 



6. Thin apple trees and other fruit trees if necessary. 



7. Pick off galls on small ornamental evergreens. 



8. Plant deciduous trees and shrubs, but not ever- 

 greens. Poplars, magnolia trees, willows and oaks had 

 better be planted in early spring, but other trees, such as 

 maples, lindens, etc., can be planted in October. 



QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 



Q. Is it advisable to start evergreens under box elder trees ? 

 O. F., Valley City, North Dakota. 



A. No, it is not advisable to plant evergreens under box elder 

 trees. The box elder is a profuse grower, and shallow rooted, 

 and will surely interfere with the food supply of the evergreens. 

 Moreover, most evergreens thrive best where there is plenty of 

 light. 



Q. I would be very much indebted if I could receive a little 

 information from you regarding a disease which apparently has 

 attacked some of the white pine trees in Pike County, Pennsyl- 

 vania. As yet the disease does not seem to be serious, as so far 

 only three or four trees out of a possible fifty thousand have been 

 affected on my place. The symptoms are that the leaf turns brown 

 from the base of the stem outward until there is only a green tip 

 left. All the leaves are similarly affected so that it gives the tree 

 a rusty brown appearance until it dies. The disease which I am 



referring to, however, does not seem to in any way affect the 

 bark as does the so-called white pine blight or rust. The rapidity 

 with which it works when a tree is affected, however, is quite 

 startling, the tree only living apparently a couple of weeks after it 

 becomes affected. I am sending specimens. 



A. H. H., Staten Island, New York. 



A. An examination of the specimens of white pine which you 

 sent me shows the disease to be one which is known as leaf 

 blight. It is a physiological trouble, probably caused by some 

 extreme weather conditions last winter, which have affected a 

 small part of the sap wood through which the water is conducted 

 from the roots upwards to the leaves. Hot, relatively dry weather, 

 particularly when preceded by cool, wet weather, results in a 

 greatly and unduly increased demand by the leaves for water. 

 Until this time, the sap wood, only a part of which is affected, 

 has been able to transmit sufficient water, but this sudden, much 



