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AMERICAN FORESTRY 



tolerant species in woodlands, or the planting of moist, low 

 areas with the sweet hay or liquidamhar. 



" Probahly nu features add more charm to a woodland 

 than streams and lakes. Streams must be properly 

 directed, however, and formed into pools and spills. Their 

 margins must be carefully treated with shade-loving 

 'woodsy* plants. I- this landscape gardening? The 

 creating of a lake may flood an area and destroy trees. 

 This condition must be considered and planting done 

 to meet the changed water conditions. This is not land- 

 scape gardening. 



" The use of trees for ' planting out ' unsightly objects 

 has long been a trick of landscaping. Where a large body 



of woodland is needed for this purpose, however, the 

 operation becomes landscape forestry. The same holds 

 true for the ' planting in ' of pleasant prospects. The 

 treatment of woodland areas to encourage or discourage 

 true woodland flowers is a part of our work. Some of 

 these flowers, which are at home in the forest, but usually 

 out of place in a garden or on a lawn, are: Hepatica, 

 trillium, Solomon's seal, anemone, blood-root, partridge 

 berry, azalea, rhododendron, and mountain laurel. 



"With these considerations in mind, I trust we 

 have established landscape forestry as a distinct pro- 

 fession entirely divorced from landscape gardening or 

 other allied branches." 



ADVICE FOR NOVEMBER 



Advice upon what to do for shade trees and shrubs 

 during November, sent by the American Forestry Asso- 

 ciation to its members, and available for any applicant for 

 advice is as follows : 



1. Prune trees and remove the dead branches. 



2. Do whatever fall spraying may be necessary to over- 

 come sucking or scale insects. 



3. Prepare a compost of leaf mold in a mixture with 

 manure and soil. This compost will prove of great value 



in all planting and gardening work on your premises, as 

 well as in rejuvenating impoverished specimen trees. 



4. Prune the roots of trees which are to be moved 

 during the winter; cut around the base of the tree and fill 

 the trench with straw. 



5. In especially exposed places, protect the rhododen- 

 drons and other tender plants and shrubs with evergreen 

 boughs. Do this only where the cold and exposure make 

 it absolutely necessary. 



QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 



Q. Could you give me the name and a little information 

 concerning the tree producing the enclosed leaf? The tree is 

 growing in sandy soil in an excavation made for an aqueduct 

 near my home in Aqueduct, New York. The enclosed is a com- 

 paratively small leaf, the tree producing much larger. The tree 

 seems to be about four or five years old, and is perhaps three 

 inches in diameter at the base. I have not seen any other tree 

 of a like nature in the locality, hence my interest in the matter. 



E. L. P., Aqueduct, New York. 



A. The tree is of the variety Paulownia imperiates, or 

 Empress of Japan. It is similar in leaf and flower to the catalpa, 

 introduced into this country from China and Japan, and named 

 for Anna Paulowna, a Russian princess, daughter of Czar Paul I. 

 It occurs through southern New York and New Jersey, but is 

 hardy as far north as New York City. 



Q. I am enclosing a specimen of moss or scale from three 

 species of the trees on our place that we prize most, viz., the red 

 oak, wild olive and walnut. We have about five walnut trees, 

 twelve large wild olives and four large red oaks in which we are 

 seriously interested. A local, rather well-known expert in such 

 matters predicts the death of all our large trees within five 

 years, unless the scale is gotten rid of. After examination, if 

 you can suggest a remedy it will surely be appreciated. 



R. W. H*, Savannah, Georgia. 



A. With reference to your inquiry, I have a report from our 

 expert on the specimens which you sent me, and I am glad to be 

 able to tell you that it is of the foliose lichens. Neither it nor 

 the moss you sent is parasitic, and the only known effect they 

 may have on the tree would be a smothering effect. Neither is 

 as likely to have as smothering an effect as the so-called Spanish 

 moss, which docs not seem to be concerned in this case. The 

 most that you need to fear is a slight reduction in the vigor of 

 the trees, and even this is not to be expected unless the moss is 

 present in great quantity in the top of the trees as well as 

 on the trunk 



Q. Being a member of the Association and a careful reader 

 of the magazine, I wish to ask you concerning a maple tree 

 which is in front of my house. I am enclosing a small sketch 

 showing the elevation. My house is about six or eight feet 

 above the state road, and between the first and second banking 

 there is a large maple tree which shows signs of dying. The 

 tree is directly to the north of the house and misses a lot of the 

 sunshine, and also it is so placed on the banking that most of 

 the rain water drains down into the road. What would you 

 advise doing to prolong the life of this tree as it is a very 

 valuable one to me? 



R. M. M., Webster, Massachusetts. 



A. I am much interested in your description of your maple 

 tree and its location, and am glad to give you the best advice I 

 can as to its care. Would suggest, first of all, a deep fertiliza- 

 tion with well-rotted manure. Dig a trench around the tree 

 about three or four feet away from the trunk. The trench 

 should be three feet wide and two feet deep. Fill this trench with 

 well-rotted manure mixed with good dark soil, half in half. In 

 addition to this it is also well to vein the manure in narrow lines 

 radiating from the trunk of the tree to the trench. In this way 

 most of the roots will be fertilized and the ends of the roots 

 will terminate in a rich mass of manured soil. The object of this 

 work is not only to enrich the soil and the production of new 

 and larger roots, but also to form a mulch which will retain 

 the water and prevent it from draining to the road. Leaf mold, 

 in combination with the manure, will help this mulching property. 

 The running off of the water to the road may also be stopped by 

 mixing considerable clay with the soil on that side of the tree 

 which faces the road. 



The following is quoted from a letter received from one of 

 our readers : 



"I have just been reading with considerable interest, your 

 article in the July American Forestry on Municipal Planting of 

 Shade Trees. It seems to me that no one could find fault with 



