FIRST AID TO WOUNDED TREES 



743 



into pupae in July ; the pupas then change into moths. The 

 female moth, a sluggish, wingless specimen, deposits its egg 

 clusters on the bark of a tree, and then it dies, leaving the eggs 

 to remain in the same position all winter. 



The best method of combating the insect is as follows : The 

 egg masses should be removed and burned any time from August 

 to May. If the work is done on lawns, the scraping or remov- 

 ing of the eggs should be done over a canvas to enable gathering 

 of the eggs and preventing them from hatching in the grass. On 

 the streets, they may be scraped off on the asphalt and collected 

 afterward. It is also important to be on the lookout for the eggs 

 on fences and at the various other protective places in the neigh- 

 borhood of the trees because they have a tendency to deposit 

 their eggs on buildings, fences, posts, etc., as well as on the trees. 



Another way of combating is to spray the infected trees early 

 in July with arsenate of lead. The idea is to poison the leaves 

 so that the caterpillars feeding on the poisoned leaves become 

 poisoned themselves and die. Banding the trees in early spring 

 with burlap or cotton batting is useful in so far as these bands 

 serve as traps enabling the owner or caretaker to come along 

 and collect the caterpillars under the bands where they have a 

 tendency to gather in masses. The band, however, is not an 

 absolute impediment. 



The bag-worm is also sometimes called the basket worm, and 

 produces small caterpillars hidden in bag-like shelters composed 

 of particles of bark, leaves, etc. The insect spends the winter 

 in the egg state. It emerges in form of a young caterpillar in 

 May or early June and feeds on the leaves of trees in the sum- 

 mer. It is most injurious to certain evergreens, especially arbor 

 vitae, but does damage also to maple, oak, elm, poplar and 

 other species of trees. The remedy consists in (1) collecting and 

 burning the bags all winter, and (2) spraying for the caterpillar 

 in the summer with arsenate of lead, one pound to ten gallons 

 of water. 



Q. Will you advise me when it will be best to transplant a 

 copper beech about seven feet in height and what method should 

 be employed. 



E. K., Hackensack, New Jersey. 



A. The best time to transplant your copper beech is in April. 

 Dig the tree and carefully preserve a ball of soil around its 

 roots. Wrap the ball around with burlap to prevent it from 

 breaking in the process of transplanting. Beech are difficult to 

 transplant and the ball of soil is quite necessary. Beech trees 

 can also be moved in the winter time with a frozen ball of 

 soil but early spring is preferable. It is also advisable to trim back 

 lightly the branches at the time of transplanting. 



Q. Where can I find information on the proper treatment of 

 natural lakes in city parks ? The St. Paul and Minneapolis Park 

 Boards invariably dredge the shores and conventionalize them by 

 a fringe of willows. To me this process takes a large part of 

 beauty and interest away from them. 



D. L., St. Paul, Minnesota. 



A. You can find information on the treatment of natural 

 lakes in city parks in " The Art of Landscape Architecture," by 

 Samuel Parsons in Chapter 8. There is very little else written on 

 the subject. The matter of treatment depends to a very great ex- 

 tent on the purpose and use of the lake, and the individual taste 

 of the designer. 



Q. We have a proposition to plant up a swamp near Madi- 

 son, Wisconsin, with some quick growing trees. They are going 

 to drain it eventually, but before they do they want to make it 

 attractive by planting clusters of quick growing trees and shrubs, 

 probably using several thousand. What kind would you advise 

 planting in that locality ? 



W. W. M., Chicago, Illinois. 



A. I believe that you would do best to use the willows, the 

 Silax alba, or white willow, being a splendid, quick growing 

 variety. Any of the willows or the dwarf willows would answer 



your purpose very well. If the ground is not too wet, that is, 

 so that the trees would be under water, you might also be success- 

 ful with the pin oak and the scarlet maple, both beautiful trees. 

 As to shrubbery, you could use alder, milky dogwood, elder and 

 the various viburnums with success. 



Because of the location of the area in Wisconsin, 1 would 

 suggest that you consult a local nurseryman, or at least one 

 familiar with that section, as to the best varieties of the species I 

 have mentioned for use there. He would, of course, be able to 

 tell you just which ones would be hardiest under the climatic 

 conditions there. It is always best to have the advice of some local 

 man in the business if it is possible to secure it, before going into 

 any extensive planting. But you may safely follow the above gen- 

 eral suggestions in making your plans. 



Q. I have a little earth plot, but the earth is full of worms 

 which eat the roots of all the plants in my garden. What can I 

 do to kill the worms? 



E. W. K., New York City. 



A. You can bring all the worms to the surface of the ground 

 by pouring a liquid known as " worm eradicator " over the sur- 

 face of the ground, and if the trouble is caused by rodents you 

 can dip some wheat in strychnine and dig it into the soil 

 around your plants. 



Q. Is the ailanthus a good tree to plant? If not, why not? 



J. M., Rome, New York. 



A. The ailanthus has one great advantage over most other 

 trees in being able to adapt itself to the poorest conditions for tree 

 growth where few other species will grow. It is also a well 

 balanced tree and is therefore of great value in planting under 

 certain poor conditions where little else will grow. On the other 

 hand, for general planting, the ailanthus is not to be encouraged 

 in preference to other species. The ailanthus grows quickly and 

 dies quickly. It is shallow-rooted and liable to overturn in 

 windstorm. Its wood is soft and brittle and when the tree reaches 

 the age of thirty or over, it becomes hollow and dangerous. 



Q. My tree, I think, has been killed by gas. How can I 

 detect it and how can I recover damages ? The tree is in front 

 of my house on the city street. 



Mrs. F. McN., New York City. 



A. Dig around the tree and try to detect the odor of gas. 

 Apply to your city forester and ask him to help you. 



Q. Please tell me the best kind of trees to plant for shade 

 in an outer yard where quick returns are wanted. The lot is 

 protected from the wind by a hill. No clay subsoil. 



J. H. W., Cedar Springs, Virginia. 



A. Replying to your inquiry, I do not think you cou'd get 

 any tree more satisfactory for your purpose than the red oak. 

 This is a beautiful shade tree and one of the most rapid growing. 

 It is hardy and healthy also. Another good tree for open plant- 

 ing in a yard for quick shade is the tulip tree, a rapidly growing 

 tree with beautiful flowers and foliage, and splendid for shade. 

 The Carolina poplar is also good, but the other two species are 

 much to be preferred. I enclose our bulletin on the Selection of 

 Shade Trees, which will give you valuable information. 



Q. In treatment for hollow trees you recommend a wash 

 made of copper sulphate. Is this the chemical or commercial 

 form of copper sulphate? Where do you obtain it, and how 

 much should it cost? The ordinary druggist does not know what 

 to supply, and therefore recommends something quite different. 



R. B. J., New York City. 



A. The copper sulphate may be secured in commercial form. 

 Get "Bordeaux mixture," which comes prepared and can be 

 obtained at any large seed store. If you have a copy of Levison's 

 " Studies of Trees," read the chapter on cavity treatment. It is 

 full of good information. If you haven't the book and wish it,, 

 we can secure it for you. The price is $1.75. 



