Ornamental and Shade Trees 



A Department for the Advice and Instruction of Members of the American Forestry Association 



Edited by J. J. Levison, B. A., M. F. 

 Arboriculturist Brooklyn Park Department, Author of "Studies of Trees," and Lecturer on Ornamental and 



Shade Trees, Yale University Forest School 



TIMELY SUGGESTIONS FOR TIJE PRUNER OF ORNAMENTAI, AND SHADE TREES 



SEPTEMBER is the month when pruning of orna- 

 mental and shade trees can be done to the greatest 

 advantage. The dead branches can be distin- 

 guished from the live ones very readily at this season, 

 the general contour of the tree can be judged with greater 

 ease and climbing into the branches can be done more 

 safely than on a cold winter day. The following hints 

 will help the pruner in preventing injury to himself or 

 others and in accomplishing his work in accordance with 

 correct pruning principles. 



HINTS ON CLIMBING 



Set out the danger signs before commencing heavy 

 pruning work. 



Examine the condition of your ladder and tie its upper 

 end to the tree before starting out. 



Be sure of the strength of your branch before tying 

 an extension ladder to it. 



Do not slant the extension ladder too much. 



Always watch the upper end of your ladder. Always 

 have another man hold your ladder when you go up to 

 tie it or when you come down after untying it. 



Never remain in a tree or on a ladder while a limb is 

 being pulled off or lowered. 



Examine all rope before using it on heavy work. 



In removing a heavy branch use two ropes, one to 

 guide, the other to lower the branch. 



Use caution where high power wires are running 

 through or alongside of trees, as the insulation may be 

 worn oft and make work very dangerous, especially in 

 wet weather. 



Always consult your foreman before taking up any 

 work where risk is involved. 



Before starting out on a tree, judge its general condi- 

 tion. The trunk of the tree that shovirs age, disease or 

 wood-destroying insects generally has its branches in an 

 equally unhealthy condition. Greater precautions should, 

 therefore, be taken with a tree in this condition than with 

 a young vigorous tree. 



The different kinds of wood differ naturally in their 

 strength and pliability. The soft and brash woods need 

 greater precaution than the strong and pliable ones. All 

 the poplars, the ailanthus, the silver maple, the chestnut, 

 the catalpa and willow are either too soft or too brittle 

 to depend on without special care. The elm, hickory and 

 oak have strong flexible woods and are, therefore, safer 

 than any other. The red oak is weaker than the other 



oaks. The sycamore and beech have a tough cross- 

 grained wood and are, therefore, fairly strong. The lin- 

 den has a soft wood, while the ash and the gum, though 

 strong and flexible, are apt to split. 



BADLY PRUNED TREE 



In order to make room for the overhead wires this tree was cut as 

 shown in the photograph and its unsightly and unnatural appearance 

 is at once an evidence that the work was improjierly done. 



Look out for the limb that shows fungous growths. 

 Every fungus sends out a great many fibers into the main 

 body of the limb, which draw out its sap. The interior 

 of the branch then loses all strength and becomes like a 

 powder. Outside appearances sometimes do not show 

 the interior condition, but one can be sure that every time 

 he sees a fungus popping out there is trouble behind it, 

 and the limb is not altogether safe. 



When the limb is full of holes or knots, it generally 

 indicates that borers have been working all kinds of gal- 

 leries through it, making it unsafe. The silver maple 

 and the sycamore maple in this locality are especially 

 full of borers which in many cases work on the underside 



P3I 



