Ornamental and Shade Trees 



A Department for the Adzice and Instruction of Members of the American Forestry Association 



Edited by J. J. Levison, B. A., M. F. 

 Arboriculturist Brooklyn Park Department, Author of "Studies of Trees," and Lecturer on Ornamental and 



Shade Trees, Yale University Forest School 



How to Plant a Shade Tree 



and 



How to Care for It the First Few Years 



THERE has been considerable good literature pub- 

 lished in recent years on the planting of shade 

 trees. It is timely to quote some of this from 

 the following tree sources which will cover the most im- 

 portant points of the question. 



The office of the Commissioner of Forestry of the 





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State of Rhode Island publishes the following on "How 

 to Plant Shade Trees" : 



"Many trees are destined before planting to an early 

 death through lack of precautions in their digging and 

 transit. Removing a tree from its original site and plant- 



992 



ing it in a new place is a surgical operation requiring a 

 knowledge of plant physiology. To grub out trees and 

 plant them in small dry holes invites wholesale failure. 

 Of a lot of vigorous trees suitably planted, nearly every 

 one should live and thrive. 



"In digging trees care is required to preserve a large 

 number of the tender root-tips and fine rootlets which 

 supply the water and mineral food. A small tree an 

 inch or two in diameter growing near the place of 

 transplanting, may be lifted with a ball of earth in which 

 the root system is imbedded, wrapped in burlap, and 

 carried to the pit prepared for it. To secure shade 

 without loss of time, trees six or more inches in diameter 

 are sometimes transplanted with full ball of earth an 

 expensive operation requiring special appliances. Trees 

 sent out by nurseries are usually lifted without balls of 

 earth and skilfully packed for long-distance shipment. 

 Upon arrival from the nursery, unpack the trees and set 

 them in small trenches in a shady place, covering the roots 

 with moist earth. Trees dry and hot when received are 

 not likely to live, but some species will stand more mal- 

 treatment than others. Wild seedlings from the field and 

 woods may be used, but nursery stock is preferred. VVhen 

 ready to begin work, remove the trees from the trenches, 

 cover the roots with moist straw or burlap and carry them 

 to the tree-pits and plant. At no time must the roots 

 be much exposed to the sun and wind. 



"The cost of planting varies with the size of tree, soil 

 and site. The Beacon Street planting in Boston recently 

 done successfully under the direction of a landscape 

 architect, cost $.50 a tree. This work involved the plant- 

 ing of 150 European lindens, 2^^ inches in diameter, a 

 system of sub-irrigation by means of Akron pipes laid 

 with open joints among the roots, the digging of tree- 

 pits 12 feet long, 41/2 feet wide and 3 feet deep, the re- 

 moval of the excavated material, the filling of each pit 

 with 4 cubic yards of rich loam, relaying the sidewalk, 

 tree guards, and maintenance for two years. In country 

 and suburban districts and in favorable city locations, 

 the cost would be much less than the above named figure. 



"Street trees are usually spaced 30 to 50 feet, according 

 to species ; 40 feet is a good distance ; large trees like oak, 

 elm, sycamore, and black walnut require wide spacing 



