Il6 RADISH. 



These are fairly large, and as a rule they possess strong 

 powers of germination. The starting of the plants is, 

 therefore, an easy matter; the seeds may be sown in 

 drills from one-fourth to one-half an inch deep, the 

 greater depth being preferred for light, sandy soils. They 

 are generally sown thickly, and the seedlings are after- 

 wards thinned to the desired distance ; but if the seeds are 

 fresh they may be planted at intervals of about one-fourth 

 inch in the drills. This should insure a good stand. A 

 convenient method of making the drills in hotbeds and 

 benches is to fasten to one side of a lath a strip that is 

 about a quarter of an inch thick and as wide as the drill 

 is to be deep. This is nailed edgewise along the center 

 of the lath (Fig. 38), and 

 the drills are made by press- 

 ing the projecting piece into 

 the soil until the lath will 

 allow it to go no further. 

 38. Planting stick. It is then carefully with- 



drawn, and if the soil is 



properly prepared and not too dry, a perfect groove 

 will be formed. A very uniform depth can be attained 

 in this manner. 



Soil. The soil for radishes should be what is known 

 as warm and quick. Sand should predominate, but 

 plenty of humus and well rotted-stable manure must be 

 mixed with it. By composting thinly-cut sod growing 

 upon sandy loam with one-third its volume of stable ma- 

 nure, a good radish soil will be formed. It wilt be ready 

 for use in about a year, and if at the end of that time 

 the vegetable fiber is not thoroughly decayed, it will not 

 ma ter. Such a compost is suitable for nearly all vege- 

 tables grown in greenhouses, but it is especially valuable 

 for rapid-growing crops. When placed upon a layer of 

 ashes, coarse gravel, inverted sods, or some similar open 

 material, the drainage is perfect, and the plants have an 

 excellent opportunity for rapid growth. 



