MUSKMELON. 253 



Melon seeds are started in 2-inch or 3-inch pots, only 

 one plant being allowed to grow in each pot. The plants 

 are transferred to 4-inch pots, and then to the benches. 

 If the plants become stunted, they are worthless (page 

 210). 



In benches 4 feet wide, the plants may be set 2^ feet 

 apart in two rows ; or they may be set 18 inches apart in 

 a single row. When only a single row is used, the row 

 may be set near one side of the bench and a part of the 

 wide side left unfilled ; in this unfilled portion the soil is 

 added at intervals, thus affording new forage as it may 

 be needed. It is always well to set twice as many plants 

 in the bed as will be needed, in order to insure against 

 losses from accidents, damping-off, and the like (page 

 209). 



The plants are headed-in as soon as they are estab- 

 lished in their permanent quarters, in order to make them 

 branch and to set them into fruit-bearing. Three or four 

 main arms are trained out fan-shaped on a wire trellis, 

 and each one is headed-in when 4 or 5 feet high. All 

 blind and fine shoots must be kept off. Some growers 

 allow the main stem to grow straight up, and take out 

 side branches from it (page 211). 



The fruits hang free, and are supported in slings of 

 soft broad cord, or in swings (Figs. 73,77, page 211). 



Melon flowers must be pollinated by hand. The first 

 two or three pistillate flowers are not pollinated, for if 

 one fruit is set much in advance of the other flowers it 

 will absorb the attention of the vine, and it will be found 

 to be very difficult to set other fruits (page 214). 



We have found good forcing varieties to be Blenheim 

 Orange, Hero of Lockinge, Masterpiece, Sutton A i, Im- 

 perial, and Emerald Gem. There are numerous other 

 acceptable varieties (page 215). 



An average of two good melons to a plant is a good 

 crop in midwinter. In fall and spring, four and five fruits 

 may be obtained (page 220). 



