5tliv INTRODUCTION, 



have availed much in deep water, was not fufficient when 

 I came to the furf. I received a violent blow upon my 

 bread from the eddy wave and reflux, which feemed as 

 given me by a large branch of a tree, thick cord, or fome 

 elaftic weapon. It threw me upon my back, made me fwal- 

 low a confiderable quantity of water, and had then almoft 

 fuffbcated me. 



I avoided the next wave, by dipping my head and letting 

 it pafs over, but found myfelf breathlefs, exceedingly 

 weary and exhaufled. The land, however, was before me, 

 and clofe at hand. A large wave floated me up. I had the 

 profpect of efcape flill nearer, and endeavoured to prevent 

 myfelf from going back into the furf. My heart was flrong, 

 but ftrength was apparently failing, by being involuntarily 

 twilled about, and ftruck on the face and breafl by the vio- 

 lence of the ebbing wave : it now feemed as if nothing re- 

 mained but to give up the ftruggle, and refign to my def- 

 tiny. Before I did this I funk to found if I could touch the 

 ground, and found that I reached the fand with my feet, 

 though the water was flill rather deeper than my mouth. 

 The fuccefs of this experiment infufedinto me the ftrength 

 of ten men, and I ftrove manfully, taking advantage of 

 floating only with the influx of the wave, and preserving my 

 ftrength for the ftruggle againft the ebb, which, by finking 

 and touching the ground, I now made more eafy. At laft, 

 finding my hands and knees upon the fands, I fixed my 

 nails into it, and obftinately refilled being carried back at 

 all, crawling a few feet when the fea had retired. I had 

 perfectly loft my recollection and underftanding, and after 

 creeping fo far as to be out of the reach of the fea, I fup- 



goifi 



