20 CUTTINGS 



cuttings, it should be of almost razor-like keenness, so that all the material 

 can be cut cleanly away and not bruised. 



Soil. In preparing a compost for cuttings it is as necessary as it is 

 with seeds to secure good drainage ; therefore, if pots, pans or boxes are 

 used, they should be drained as advised for seeds. All the soil as far as the 

 cuttings descend (and if pots are used it need not go very much deeper) 

 should be finely sifted. For most shrubs two parts clean silver sand to 

 one of sifted loam will be suitable. If the plants are peat-lovers, the sand 

 may be increased to a proportion of three parts to one of peat. When 

 placing the cutting in the soil the base of the cutting should settle firmly 

 on the bottom of the hole made for it. It should not be suspended so 

 that a hollow exists beneath its base. When the cuttings are firmly 

 inserted they should be well watered and then, if in pots, put in the 

 propagating case. 



Bell-glasses, cloches, and handlights are extremely useful for placing 

 over cuttings, either under glass or in the open air. The first can be 

 obtained to fit any but the smallest sizes of circular pots. By their aid 

 much valuable propagating may be done in the open air. For this 

 work a sheltered shady spot should be selected; the soil should be 

 prepared in the proportions advised, rather deeper than the cuttings 

 descend, and when inserted the cuttings should be covered by the glass, 

 the chief use of which is to keep a permanently moist, still air and 

 prevent undue loss of moisture. Where no other convenience exists this 

 method may be tried for any hardy shrub. For many, no doubt, it may 

 fail, but for the brooms, double-flowered gorse, rosemary, lavender, and 

 numerous others, it is the best method available. Cuttings made in 

 September and October usually form a callus during the winter, and take 

 root the following spring. 



Most of the species of Vitis, including the common grape-vine, can be 

 propagated in spring by single buds, or " eyes," as they are usually termed. 

 Healthy buds from the most vigorous part of the previous year's shoot are 

 selected, and are cut with about half an inch of wood each side the bud. The 

 pieces are usually made boat-shaped, i.e., with a sloping cut at each side, the 

 cuts approaching each other on the under side. They are pressed into 

 soil and left with only the tip of the bud exposed. Bottom heat is needed. 



Root-cuttings. A considerable number of hardy trees and shrubs 

 can be increased by cutting up the root into pieces and planting them in 

 soil. They usually produce leafy shoots more quickly and surely when 

 given bottom heat. The sumachs (Rhus\ Xanthoceras sorbifolia, 

 mulberry, and all those that naturally produce root-suckers like elms, 

 Robinid) etc., may be propagated in this way. When other means fail, it 

 is ,worth trying for any plant that produces fairly thick fleshy roots. The 

 pieces are usually made about 3 ins. long and should be inserted with that 



