TYING SHIELD-BUDS. IOI 



"rotted" in water for four or five weeks. It is then 

 removed, cut into the desired lengths, and stripped into 

 narrow bands one-fourth to one-half inch wide when it 

 may be sorted and stored away for future use. If it is stiff 

 and harsh when it comes from the maceration, it should be 

 pounded lightly or rubbed through the hands until it 

 becomes soft and pliable. The best tying material which 

 we now have is undoubtedly raffia. It is an imported 

 article, coming from the eastern tropics (the product of the 

 palm Raphia Ruffia), but it is so cheap that it is supersed- 

 ing even bass-bark. It is strong and pliable, and is an 

 excellent material for tying up plants in the greenhouse, or 

 small ones outdoors. The greatest disadvantage in its use 

 in the budding field is its habit of rolling when it becomes 

 dry, but it may be dipped in water a few minutes before it is 

 taken into the field, or, better still, it may be allowed to lie 

 on the fresh ground during the previous night, during which 

 time it will absorb sufficient moisture to become pliable. 



In two or three weeks after the bud is set, it will have 

 "stuck" or united to the stock. The bandage must then 

 be removed or cut. It is the common practice to draw a 

 budding-knife over the strings, on the side opposite the bud, 

 completely severing them and allowing them to fall off as 

 they will. If the strings are left on too long they will con- 

 strict the stem and often kill the bud, and they also have a 

 tendency to cause the bud to "break " or to begin to grow. 

 The bud should remain perfectly dormant until spring, for if 

 it should begin to grow it will be injured and perhaps killed 

 by the winter. It should remain green and fresh ; if it 

 shrivels and becomes brown, even though it still adheres to 

 the stock, it is worthless. Advantage can be taken, when 

 cutting the tyings, to rebud any stocks which have failed. 

 If the bud should begin to grow, because of a warm and wet 

 fall or other reasons, there is little remedy except perhaps to 

 head the shoot back if it should become long enough. If 

 the stocks are protected by snow during winter, some of 

 the buds at the base of the shoot may pass the cold in 

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