FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



as a surprise. They now offered thanks to their gods for a pros- 

 perous voyage by burning strings of crackers. And indeed we had 

 been lucky. We learned later in a letter from M. Dupont that a 

 band of pirates had actually set out with the intention of capturing 

 us and holding us to ransom. They had even provided themselves 

 with grenades to throw into the junks. We owed our safety to our 

 speed. 



If we had enjoyed quick progress by water, in revenge as soon 

 as we set foot on land we made acquaintance with those inter- 

 minable delays which are due to the apathy or the ill-will of the 

 yellow race. We wished simply to pass through Manhao and to 

 push on to Mongtse, where we should be able to engage muleteers, 

 organise our caravan, and forward our reserve baggage to Tali. 

 It took us four days before we could even start. Our first diffi- 

 culties were with the custom-house. The coolies refused to dis- 

 embark the loads without authority. The officials insisted on 

 a declaration, which I refused, as our passports for the Yurman 

 dispensed with it. I invited them to come on board : they would 

 not be at the trouble. I threatened them with all the thunders of 

 their chief at Mongtse : they did not seem perturbed. Nor was it 

 until after long hours of discussion that I obtained a permit which 

 was our due, and which they might have issued at once. 



We put up at the house of a merchant who spoke French and 

 had been M. Bleton's interpreter. He was a small wizen creature, 

 whose emaciated features and shrunken semi-transparent hands at 

 once told the tale of the baneful opium passion which enslaved him. 

 Nevertheless he rendered us service in settling money matters. We 

 had to arrange for the transport of ourselves and baggage to 

 Mongtse. Our ponies had certainly arrived from Laokay, and 

 proved sturdy and clever ; but we now learned that the mules which 



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