FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



by leather thongs. The advantage of the system is that the 

 harness is independent of the pack, and one can off-saddle for 

 the night without disturbing anything. The ease with which one 

 can disencumber the mule facilitates his passage in dangerous 

 spots. Indeed, being thus able to rid himself of his burden, he 

 often availed himself of this avoidance of accident on his own 

 account. When the weights are even, as may easily be managed 

 with tea or cotton for cargo, the mule can carry much without 

 suffering. But with mixed lots, such as ours, the system of 

 loading caused sores. The treatment of the mules consequently 

 called for great care. The averaore load was from 120 lbs. to 

 140 lbs., half on either side. Those that gave most trouble were 

 the chests containing money. Each one in itself was 1 20 lbs. 

 They had therefore to be distributed. We were carrying to 

 Mongtse piastres to exchange there against Chinese ingots, and, 

 as robbers were numerous, they required watching. 



In the afternoon we were at last ready, and the real journey 

 commenced. Being in high spirits at the prospect of active 

 employment, everything seemed interesting and picturesque. 

 Things struck us which soon we should not heed : the boys upon 

 their ponies, odd -looking figures in their half- European half- 

 Annamite get-up ; the interpreter, perched high on a heap of 

 rugs, with a dirty squash hat on his head, and his toes thrust 

 into loops of straw for stirrups. Each of us was no doubt a 

 caricature to his neighbour. 



The first part of our route was a steady ascent, from 510 feet 



to 6,150 feet. The mules climbed sturdily in single file, urged 



by the shouts and imprecations of the drivers. You can't travel 



in Yunnan without constant " ma/c'piozis." The leader bore our 



red flag, with my name on it in Chinese characters. It was the 



18 



