FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



only two Chinese towns where ladies of rank come out on foot 

 in this guise. I paused at the stall of a silversmith, and watched 

 him at work as among the Laos States, his silver plate resting 

 upon a wax mould fixed to a block, while with mallet and chisel 

 he shaped his trinkets. A murmur behind us apprised us of the 

 approach of some notable, and we drew ourselves up to let the 

 procession pass. First advanced matchlock men, fairly well set 

 up, with flags and a gong beater at their head. In rear of them 

 were borne wooden placards, banners representing the Imperial 

 dragon, and a huge screen in shape like a leaf Then followed 

 six boys in long red and green skirts, with caps of the same 

 colours, and a big gold sword at the shoulder. Next came men 

 armed with tridents, and two others blowing trumpets — the long 

 copper trumpet well known amongst the pirates of Tonkin for its 

 rallying note. More long-robed children, extinguished under 

 pointed astrologers' hats, and shouting for all they were worth. 

 Then civil dignitaries ; men of letters with crystal buttons ; 

 mounted mandarins in silk robes brocaded with oold, and horse- 

 tails waving from their hats. And last of all, the main figure, 

 lolling in his heavy green litter, was borne the tchenta)\ or military 

 chief 



This General Ma was a good friend to us. In appearance he 

 was big and corpulent, with an aquiline nose. In faith a Mussul- 

 man, and well disposed to the French ; in all difficulties between 

 the missionaries and the authorities he tried to make things 

 smooth. Following a visit which we paid him, came an invita- 

 tion to a great feast which lasted fully two hours and a half The 

 Mussulman cuisine was excellent, and consisted of plates of rice, 

 potatoes, mutton killed according to the rites and prepared strictly 



without pig's fat. For drink we had champagne alternating with 



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