FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



of red flags, scarlet robes, blue trousers, and yellow straw hats, 



contributing with the bright sunshine in an arid country to a 



dazzling and picturesque effect. At Manhao we only stopped for 



breakfast, deeming it more prudent not to halt our followers long in 



a town, as we were about to attempt the route on the right bank 



of the Soncr-Coi, of which Roux and I had found the beoinninsf. 



To cross the river we had to put the saddles and loads on small 



rafts, and then tried to pass the animals over by swimming. 



These, however, did not see it in the same light, despite shouts, 



and blows, and volleys of stones from the urchins in the crowd 



which had come out to see us. After prolonged struggles and 



breaks away, swearing man triumphed over stubborn brute, and by 



dint of lifting the intractable ones a hoof at a time on to the raft 



we all got over. The makotou proved himself resourceful ; but as 



for Francois, he contented himself with playing the part of the fly 



on the coach-wheel, and stood by the brink dangling his day's 



food — three fishes on a string — and offering useless advice. Our 



mafous expressed great surprise when we announced that we 



should camp farther on. They did not know the way, — there were 



no inns. " What were the tents for, if not to sleep in the open ? " 



said we. "How were the beasts to be fed?" — "Carry grain for 



them, and three days' supplies for yourselves." Franqois then struck 



in : There were pirates on the right bank, and they had long guns. 



— " So much the better ; we shall be able to photograph them." 



It was clear that our people had not reckoned on this style of 



travel, and counted on following main roads and always sleeping 



within four walls ; the Annamites, on the other hand, followed us 



in silence. The delay at the ferry made it impossible to go far that 



night, so we camped on a sandbank by the river, and experienced 



the real joy of being independent in the middle of our own troop. 



40 



