FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



were covered for two-thirds of their height with rice-fields, rising 

 in resfular terraces, over which water trickled in a series of cascades 

 that glittered like glass in the sun. The stream was conducted in 

 canals, whose horizontal lines could be discerned for many miles 

 following the contour of the hills. This method of irrigation was 

 quite a work of art, all the embankments being thrown up by 

 hand and stamped hard by foot. In Madagascar the rice-fields 

 occupy only the hollows ; here they scaled even the flanks of the 

 hills, and I could not but refiect on the capabilities which these 

 peasants might develop in the vast tracts of fertile land unused in 

 our colonies. Here and there were sparse patches of trees or 

 scrub, with groups of enormous bamboos and a profusion of varied 

 ferns. In this damp climate it was not uncommon to start in the 

 morning in thick mist, which rendered the path so slippery that the 

 horses could not keep their footing on the shining rock and sodden 

 grass ; and falls were frequent. The mafous, who shiver at 

 50' Fahr., grumbled and invented fresh pretexts every day for 

 shortening the stage. It was now the 3rd of March, and already they 

 talked of leaving us. The interpreter, of whose sullen disposition 

 we had also had evidence, joined them and announced that he 

 would go no farther with us. His conceit was unendurable, and 

 often made him ridiculous. One day, upon Roux making some 

 remark on the route, Francois told him there were Chinese maps. 



"Yes ; but they are no good," replied my companion. 



"You French say that, because we have three thousand words, 

 and you can't understand them," was the rejoinder. 



We were placed in a somewhat awkward predicament ; for we 

 were dependent on our muleteers, and could neither here nor at 

 Manhao find others to replace them. We adopted conciliatory 

 measures, and, by lightening the undoubtedly severe labour of the 



42 



