FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO 



On the 4th (March) we reached Fong-chen-lin, a small town, 

 chiefly Chinese, perched on the top of a hill in the midst of 

 fields of turnips, cabbage, and opium poppies. On our arrival 

 we experienced difficulty in finding quarters. No one would take 

 us in. The makotou and Francois were wrangling in altercation, 

 and our mules, tied to each other, fell to indiscriminate kicking ; 

 while an inquisitive and jeering Chinese crowd pressed upon us. 

 The natives held aloof, and it was only after long argument 

 that we managed to house ourselves in a wretched inn where 

 everybody was smoking opium. For our own part we preferred 

 the stable and a straw-shed to the abomination of the common 

 room. Briffaud, who had been on a tour of discovery, came 

 back with the news that we were invited to dinner. We 

 followed him across several courts to the "yamen." A fat 

 mandarin received us, and forthwith made us share his repast ; 

 and an excellent meal it was. We were in the house of the 

 " toussou " (chief). He plied us with questions, and pressed us 

 to spend the next day with him, offering the inducement of a 

 stag hunt. We regretted that time did not allow of our accepting 

 his invitation. During the conversation I was struck by the 

 humble attitude of Master Francois, who, insolent enough in his 

 bearing towards us, did not know how to sufficiently abase 

 himself in the presence of a superior of his own race. 



We resumed our journey on the following day with a pleasant 

 recollection of the chief of Fong-chen-lin, and above all of his 

 " oeufs farcis." He had agreeably varied our fare, which had 

 consisted for some time of rice and fowl, fowl and rice, with 

 only now and then pork and vegetables. We made cakes which 

 served in fancy for bread ; but in reality they were rice rolled 

 into a paste and toasted. 



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