FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO 



into a play of colours as of golden plush. From here I made 

 an expedition with Francois to a neighbouring Lolo village, 

 whose inhabitants steadfastly refused to be photographed, alleg- 

 ing that if they sat in front of the camera they would meet 

 an early death. They could give us no information as to Lolo 

 manuscripts, but said that farther on we should find many more 

 of their kindred. Back to the valley again, where the Pai 

 women were net-fishing in the rice swamps, or working in minia- 

 ture market gardens. In one of their villages we sought shelter 

 for the ensuing night in a house built on a low platform, with 

 posts within blackened by the soot of ages. Here I ensconced 

 myself on the landlord's bed. — two planks on the bare ground ; 

 outside, our baggage was piled in a crescent, of which our men 

 improvised two-storeyed accommodation. Having written up 

 my notes, I tried to sleep ; but the smoke, the stuffiness, the 

 grunting pigs and clucking hens, prevented my closing an eye. 

 At length I could stand it no longer, and took my blankets up 

 on to the flat roof where in the friendly society of a few rats I 

 found a luxurious couch of hay. Below me, by the door, two 

 men made plaintive melody on a three-stringed guitar, while a 

 third, seated on the edge of the roof, threw in an occasional 

 accompaniment. Near them, their mitre-shaped caps sharply pro- 

 filed in the clear moonlight, crouched some women. The scene 

 was quaint and foreign. 



On the iith (March) we were in the valley of another affluent, 

 and limestone formations took the place of the diorite and 

 mica-schist of the higher altitudes. The heat was great through- 

 out the day, 98° Fahr. in the shade, but dry, and we stood 

 it well enough. Fine specimens of the cotton or, as they are 



here called, pagoda trees spread their clusters of brilliant flowers ; 

 D 49 



