FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



with them by signs, showed them my field-glasses, and asked for 

 manuscripts. They indicated that they had none. Francois 

 was of no help to me in these researches, as he ignored the 

 existence of Lolo writings, and regarded my efforts as a harm- 

 less eccentricity. According to him, the Houd-dzeu alone, the 

 abstainers from pig, had other characters than the Chinese. 



While thus engaged with the villagers the day declined, and 

 still no caravan. We decided to retrace our steps, but night 

 overtook us at the entrance to a wood. It seemed more prudent 

 to stop, as we had before us a solitary dwelling where earlier in 

 the day we had asked the way. Accordingly we knocked, but, 

 getting no answer save the barking of a dog, I pushed open the 

 gate and entered the courtyard. A shrivelled beldame accosted 

 us, and in trembling accents conjured us to go away, repeating 

 incessantly the familiar phrase, " Ma chai." As it was black as 

 pitch outside, I bade Sao pacify the old woman, which he pro- 

 ceeded to do by patting her on the shoulder and pouring out a 

 string of Chinese and Laotian patois. The dialogue had been 

 begun by the light of a match which I struck ; I now lit a wisp 

 of straw, which the hag no sooner saw than, thinking we were 

 going to burn down her hovel, she trampled on it with her bare 

 feet in great alarm. At this juncture a ragged old man appeared 

 on the scene. He had more wits than the grandam, and presently 

 the matter seemed in a fair way of settlement. An oil lamp was 

 produced, some straw shaken down for our beds, and we unsaddled 

 the horses and laid aside our arms. Meanwhile disquieting shouts 

 were heard without, accompanied by dropping shots from the 

 direction of the village. " Pou pa" ("don't fear"), said the man ; 

 but I was far from feeling reassured ; and as the tumult increased 

 I stepped out into the yard, making signs at the same time that 



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