FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



proceeded to describe our situation with his finger in the 

 sand. As soon as one phrase was comprehended, he rubbed it 

 out and traced another. The Hou-Ni chief then made answer 

 by the same medium, witli the help of a word or two of Laotian. 

 The position which a moment before had looked ugly was altered, 

 — each had taken the other for robbers. Our wild gane now was 



o o 



tamed, and for a small sum of money brought us eggs and rice 

 and straw mattresses. Still they seemed reluctant to leave us, 

 and four or five hung about our sleeping quarters with their arms 

 in their hands, casting covetous eyes on my gun. The one who 

 had appeared their head observing me taking notes, asked me, 

 through Sao, to write some words for him to hang up at the foot 

 of an image in his house. At length they withdrew, and, worn 

 out with fatigue, I slept. At daylight we felt very glad to be 

 once more in the saddle ; the overnight scene of the courtyard 

 filled with savage faces lit up by the torchlight had left a suffi- 

 ciently vivid impression. But for my Annamite's presence of 

 mind anything might have happened ; the least hesitation would 

 have lost us our lives. 



We found our troop installed in a pagoda in the village 

 of Souto-tia. The monthly feast of Buddha was in progress. 

 Women were on their knees with clasped hands before the figure 

 of a fat god ; its features wore an expression of perfect bestiality, 

 and in one hand was placed a garland, in the other a scroll. The 

 worshippers accompanied their chant with bells or sticks, and 

 from time to time prostrated themselves in front of the altars, 

 on which were burning perfumes, bowls of rice, tamarind seeds, 

 and other offerings. In Souto I at last succeeded in laying hands 

 on two Lolo manuscripts, in exchange for some money, a looking- 

 glass, and a pair of scissors. 



58 



