SSUMAO TO TALI 



instrument made out of a gourd, into which five bamboo tubes 

 pierced with holes were fitted. 



The Lochais are a small race, with retreating foreheads and 

 low cast of countenance. The women dress in a long Chinese 

 robe, divided into three pleats behind over trousers, the sleeves 

 are lined with red, and a couple of red-bordered aprons fall in 

 front, a larger above a smaller. Out of doors they assume a 

 small sleeveless jacket, studded with silver. Their head -gear 

 is a large blue turban. When this is removed, a false impression 

 of height is given to their brows, from the habit of shaving the 

 front and sides of the head like the Chinese. 



The " Doctor " had got ahead of us the preceding day, and 

 we now came up with him in great tribulation. A mafou, while 

 sunk in an opium sleep beneath a tree, had allowed the mule 

 to stray that carried all his notes and scientific observations. 

 By this time, of course, the chances were they had been 

 pillaged, and must be recovered at all costs. Leaving him at 

 the spot for this purpose, we moved on slowly, and with 

 frequent halts. 



A wooden bridge, over a deep and beautiful river, served as 

 shelter for our midday meal. Two massive diagonal beams, 

 almost meeting in the centre, upheld the thatch - covered way, 

 to which a wicket at either end, occupied by a Chinese janitor, 

 lent access without toll. The bridge, gilded by the sun. framed 

 a lovely picture, where the water flashed between grey-pointed 

 rocks and stunted palms, overhung by the orchid-laden branches 

 of the larger trees. Beneath the bank lay a bamboo raft, on 

 which the descent of the river could be made at flood, in three 

 days, to the Mekong. We threw a couple of dynamite 

 cartridges into the stream, and caught a number of fish, to the 



99 



