FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



the ring broke up into vis-a-vis, to advance and to retire, or to 

 change sides by intervals. I was struck by the uniformity of 

 the dancers, who would have cut a very respectable figure in 

 any western assemblage. They are passionately fond of the art, 

 and sometimes it takes the form of a regular stampede, a wild 

 saraband accompanied by cries, but ever under control of perfect 

 time. The Lolos seemed indefatigable ; they could go on for 

 hours, and, like the generality of uncivilised races, were naturally 

 graceful in their pose. Seen through the haze of dust that rose 

 from the flitting figures in the torchlight, the whole was like a 

 magic-lantern or kaleidoscope. 



On the 23rd (April) we left our sociable Lolos, with a few 

 parting gifts. They refused utterly to accept any human like- 

 ness, even the most seductive chromo-lithographs, which I attribute 

 to some superstitious fear. 



The same day Roux happily rejoined us. He had gained 

 the co-operation of the mandarin of Dayakeu, and with the offer 

 of a reward had the mountain systematically searched by beating- 

 parties of seven men under leaders. To a fellow with a goitre 

 belonged the honour of first discovery of their object, and the 

 firing of guns soon brought the others to the spot. The baggage 

 was hidden in the brake. It was found intact, save for one lens 

 of the astronomic telescope ; and great was our companion's joy, 

 for the results of four hundred and thirty-seven miles of explora- 

 tion were involved. All's well that ends well ; but to guard 

 against a similar danger, duplicates and tracings were always made 

 in future. 



The country we were passing through was tame by com- 

 parison, and the route fair ; hillocks with scrub, and hollows with 



coppice and large trees, but no birds or flowers to note, nor 



102 



