FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



by a wattled bridge, and entered the town of Yunchou. It was 

 night, and the streets were very animated, the people moving 

 about by the glimmer of paper lanterns, and making purchases of 

 fruit, grain, or fritters at shops lit by greasy lamps. In front of 

 most of the houses scented joss-sticks burned in honour of Buddha, 

 and looked from afar like glowing cigar ends. A maimed and 

 nasal betjorar trailed himself alons: the middle of the thorouohfare 

 holding out a wooden bowl, into which an occasional sapeck 

 rattled. Before one door twisted hangings of linen were draped 

 upon a frame, denoting that a wedding was about to take place. 

 Through this bustling scene we wended our way to an unusually 

 retired inn. 



From Yunchou, on the morrow, we despatched a courier to 

 Tali. Meanwhile we descended into the town and expended 

 some money and bad Chinese on various purchases. We got 

 on with our bargaining very fairly considering, though the in- 

 cessant requisitions of our men in their efforts to delay the move 

 necessitated our submitting to a certain amount of fleecing. Still, 

 we were on the road again by the i6th (May), proceeding through 

 a fertile district of maize, sugar-cane, and rice. The grey and 

 white pagodas which we passed disclosed a series of interior courts 

 arranged in rectangular tiers like Thibetan Lamaserais or ancient 

 Jewish temples. But, on the whole, the country was monotonous, 

 and our chief diversion lay in observing the habits of our own 

 troop and of the natives whom we met. Among the former, Sao, 

 in addition to his other services, now helped us after a fashion as 

 an interpreter, and, on inquiry of us if we should have to do 

 with many more Chinese, ejaculated his usual pithy comment, 

 " Plenty stupid ! " 



Numerous mule caravans crossed us, the leaders' heads adorned 



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