TALI-FOU 



the blue-green water glided several boats about 40 feet long, 



each with a single mast and a large rectangular sail of matting. 



On the opposite side the hills were rounded and barren, with 



veins of red that meandered down their slopes into the water. 



It would have been a scene of calm contemplation as I sat on 



a stone to enjoy it, but for the hateful Chinese crowd that 



hustled and shut me in. At such moments a murderous desire 



came upon one to fling oneself, knife and revolver in hand, upon 



the repulsive mob that would not let one breathe the fresh air 



in peace for a moment. For it was a delightful spot that 1 had 



selected, beneath the shade of some willows where a green 



margin of turf sloped to a bank of shells upon the edge of the 



lake. Small barques slipped silently inshore, propelled almost 



without a ripple by a light and tapering pole plied lazily from 



the stern. In the gathering dusk they showed but as dark 



shadows ; on prow and gunwale perched a motionless row of sombre 



cormorants, so that each vessel seemed the ship of Charon. 



Whether from the plumage of the birds, or from their attitude, 



the whole convoy presented a weird, funereal appearance. But 



the odour of their freight presently declared them only fishers 



returned from water - hawking. To each boat there are eight 



cormorants ; a straw collar round the throat prevents their bolting 



the fish that they have struck, and the men have a seine of plaited 



osier for the prey. Here from the lake side Tali was but half 



visible, nor from the few roofs emerging from the green would 



anyone suspect the proximity of so large a town. 



But it was time to be up and away. Our money and cases 



had come up from Mongtse, the taels in little packages of five 



bags each, carried by six men in osier baskets balanced on their 



shoulders. As we advanced we reduced our retinue, and here 



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