CHAPTER V 



FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



Caravan Reconstituted — Joseph — Departure from Tali — Fong-Yu — Cross the Yang-pi — • 

 Sah Works at Tien-eul-tsin — Dread of the " Barbarians " — Bridge over the Mekong — 

 Fey-long-kiao — Strange Gods — Lao ; Extreme Chinese Village — Valley Tangle — The 

 Salwen — A Friendly Toussou — His Office — Between the two Rivers — The " Gate of 

 the Tiger" — Subterranean Cavern — Lissou Tallies — The Mekong again — Cord Bridge 

 at Piao-tsen — New Year's Trees — -Tono Monstrosities — A Thief Forestalled — Lamas- 

 jens — Successful Robbery ; an Unfortunate Loss — Native Dance — Lamasjen and 

 Lissou Customs — A Village Esmeralda — Administration — False Alarms — In-Chouan ; 

 Ruined Village — Side Expedition to Tdki — Explanation of Wild Loutses — Toti — Ex- 

 pected Attack — On Guard — -Cross-Bows and Poisoned Arrows — Deities at Fong- 

 Chouan ; Joseph as Cicerone — Curious Emblems — Different Names of the Salwen — 

 First mention of the Kiou-Kiang — -Loutses and their Prisoners — With Dance and Song 

 — To the Spirit of the Earth — Thibetan Tents Sighted — Town of Hsiao-Ouisi — 

 Father Tintet — Trials of the Missionaries — News from Tali — Full Stop on the Right 

 Hank — We recross the Mekong at Halo — Hopatie Fete — Caravan Divided — Lama- 

 serai of Kampou — Description — Points of Similarity between Roman Catholicism and 

 Thibetan Buddhism — Yetche : its Ruler and People — -The Mossos — Their History, 

 Customs, and Method of Writing — Visit to the King — Mosso equivalent for Bell, 

 Book, and Candle — Arrival at Tsekou — Retrospect. 



By the 14th of June our preparations were complete. We had 

 no time to lose, and wished to be off. Henceforward, as we 

 should no longer be able, as at Mongtse, to fall back on a relay 

 or a reserve, it was necessary to carry with us everything that 

 we should require to the end — money, lights, stores, etc. We 

 left with the missionaries the collections made up to this point, 

 and some superfluous baggage for remission to INIongtse, but, in 

 view of the country we were about to enter, we were obliged to 



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