FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



" South-west there were roads leading into Burmah," — thank you 

 for nothing. To the north ? — There was but one, and that 

 ascended the left bank of the Mekong. But in proportion as they 

 insisted that it was impossible to travel by the right bank, that the 

 country was impassable, perilous, peopled by savages, so our desire 

 to make the attempt increased. The farthest Chinese village was 

 two days' march north-west of Fey-long-kiao. We would attain 

 that, and then it would be time to see what more could be done. 

 Anyway, I was determined to go on till some more real obstacle 

 than the fears of our men should stop us. 



As predicted, it took us two days to reach Lao. We went up 

 by a fairly good zigzag path over the chain that divides the 

 Mekong basin from that of the Salwen. The first night we halted 

 in a hut about i,ooo feet short of the summit. We were astonished 

 to find here Manhao, the mafou who at Mienning had stabbed the 

 makotou. He related that the latter, recovered of his wounds, 

 had gone back to Mongtse with Francois, and preferred a request 

 to be taken back into our service. It may be imagined what 

 reception I gave to one who had proved so ready with his knife. 

 Throughout the latter portion of our ascent we were escorted by 

 two soldiers, as a protection against attack from Lolo or Lissou 

 robbers. I confess I placed more reliance in my revolver than in 

 the cross-bow and trident which formed the armament of our 

 warriors. On the col I remarked on either side of the path a 

 row of small sharpened bamboo stakes buried in the ground to 

 pierce the bare feet of possible brigands. The Mois of Annam 

 use a like method of defence. 



We dropped down into the Salwen basin between wooded hills 

 that sheltered rare hamlets. Round them the fields under cultiva- 

 tion were fenced with palisades of interlaced bamboo against the 



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