FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



population consisted of Chinese, Minchias, and Lissous. The 

 natives are ruled by a Lissou toussou. This magnate, after an 

 exchange of cards, invited us to lodge in his house ; but we 

 preferred the open plain outside the village, as the search for 

 some missing mules necessitated a halt of two days instead of 

 one. We made the toussou a present of a handkerchief, some 

 pictures, and a box of powder, and he paid us a visit, dressed 

 in white and with his hair long, a sign of mourning. He was 

 a half-breed, with more of the Chinese than Lissou in him, and 

 of much intelligence. His family had migrated hither from 

 Setchuen with the coming of the Mings. To his official occupa- 

 tion he added that of a trader, with thirty mules and six men 

 employed in the traffic of salt from Yiin-Loung to Yiin-tchang 

 and Teng-Yueh. This toussou knew the district well, and gave 

 us useful information beyond our expectation. He said a path, 

 which though insignificant was practicable, went hence in a 

 northerly direction. It was confined for several days to this 

 valley, trending first towards that of the Mekong and afterwards 

 back on to the watershed between the two. The route scaled 

 one high mountain, but without snow. For eight days' journey 

 we should find subject Lissous, then for two or three the jejcii, 

 "qui reguntur a nullis hominibiis et vivunt ut aniinalia" as 

 Joseph put it. The friendly toussou promised us a letter to a 

 neighbouring colleague, and provided us with a guide who would 

 also act as an interpreter among the Lissous. This new mem- 

 ber of our caravan, who likewise served as a mafou, was a tall, 

 erect man, with a marked aquiline nose and straight-set eyes ; 

 in his copper complexion he resembled a Redskin. Among the 

 inhabitants of the village we observed many who seemed to 

 have little in common with the yellow race. One woman I 



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