FROM TONKIN TO INDIA . 



hollow tree which he had selected for his bed. The mules were 

 allowed to stray among the scattered herbage, under the guard of 

 three mafous, who, having fired their pieces into the air to scare the 

 wild beasts, straightway went to sleep. We slumbered under the 

 protection of the gods, in the shape of three painted images on a 

 stone in a niche, before which remnants of egg-shells, feathers, and 

 a few white rags fluttering on the bushes bore sacrificial witness 

 to their holy character. We felt almost as barbaric as their 

 worshippers. 



Heavy rain woke us in the night, and did not abate with 

 daylight. We were now entering the rainy season, and had a 

 pleasant prospect for the next few weeks. 



6th (July). — Still threading the Salwen valley. We passed out 

 of the jurisdiction of the toussou of Loukou into that of Ketsouy, 

 a miserable village, where actually the chief was absent. But his 

 wife attempted to supply his authority with considerable urbanity, 

 and sent us eggs and goats gratis. Apropos of toussous, we learned 

 that the dignity is hereditary, and in default of direct heir a 

 successor is chosen from among the other members of the family. 

 As in the province of Yunnan, he receives rents from his subjects, 

 but nothing from the Chinese Government. Every year he must 

 remit an impost in kind, or some articles of value, to an itinerant 

 Imperial functionary, or attend in person at Tali for the purpose. 



Another day on the 7th (July) of the same work, up hill and 

 down dale. The valley was tortuous, and we were occasionally 

 high enough to get superb views ; the course presented similar bold 

 features to those of the Red River. The ridges dividing the 

 tributary gullies were of limestone origin, and scarred the face of the 

 valley with crags and cavities, often encroaching on the bed of the 



stream with grey seamed brows draped with bushes. But the clouds 



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