FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



We had ascended so far faster than we had anticipated, and with- 

 out hindrance from other sources than those of nature. A report 

 had spread among the Lissous that we were devils, and so we 

 were respected. On the col we were at an altitude of i 1,463 feet, 

 and astride the watershed between the basins of the Mekongr 

 and the Salwen. 



The pass as well as the mountain is called Fou-kou-kouane, 

 in Lissou dialect Lamakou, the "Gate of the Tiger." A post 

 consisting of a few Lissous dignified with the name of soldiers 

 occupied a bamboo shanty, ostensibly to ensure the safety of 

 the route, which was further guarded on either side by the 

 buried bamboo splinters before described. The crest was marked 

 by scarred and jagged rocks, amid which the track led on to a 

 small plateau covered with long grasses, where the rich flora 

 testified to a constant dampness. I saw two beautiful species of 

 lily, white and red, myosotis, yellow ranunculus, sage, and several 

 kinds of orchids. We did not iind here the short orrass usual 



o 



■on high summits, nor any gnaphalium. We pitched at the 



head of a green slope on a narrow shelf overtopped by a big 



rock, from which, when I climbed it in the rain, the caravan was 



so entirely hidden by the high grass that no one passing within 



thirty yards would have suspected that the grey mass sheltered 



fifteen men. The weather was execrable ; we were in the clouds ; 



the thermometer stood at 50° Fahr., and it was hard to believe 



is was July. 



Ne.xt morning the men were depressed ; they had no idea 



of bearing up against external influences, and the route was 



resumed in silence. After proceeding a short distance we came 



to a stream running into a pool, whose rim lipped the base of a 



•cliff. Taking it as a guide, we turned aside, and after a few 



167 



