FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



of their improvisation, in which they rejoiced over the advent of 



three distinguished strangers who could not fail to L;ive them 



presents. With the entrance of several women, the scene became 



more lively, and our men, especially the big Lissou niafou, who 



showed a splendid set of teeth in his childlike glee, forgot their 



toils awhile. Meanwhile, the song gave place to a dance ; the 



performers rose, the women ranging themselves arm in arm at 



the lower end, the men opposite them, each leaning on his 



neighbour's shoulder. They looked like groups in some grand 



spectacle, with a blazing pine log to do duty for footlights. Then 



the band began to wheel in circles, the male chorus keej)ing pace, 



and from time to time poising their step, while the women swayed 



their bodies in response. The whole scene reminded me of a 



dance of Thibetan women I had witnessed in the house of the 



chief Mussulman at Batang. 



24th (July). — We made little progress — the path was so steep 



in places that it required all the art of our men, aided by natives, 



to overcome it. Eventually we stopped for the night close to a 



village said to be tenanted by jcjeii. The inspection of a Chinese 



visiting card which they did not understand, and of our arms which 



they did, secured us a friendly reception. In the evening, while 



the inhabitants danced as on the preceding day, I questioned some 



of them. They were still of the Lamasjen tribe, ancient Minchia 



crossed with Chinese. All carried at their belt a long-stemmed 



pipe, a round tobacco-box, and a knife, and over their shoulders 



was sluncr a hide or string eame-baof. When asked what was their 



religious creed, they generally replied with a laugh : "After death, 



all is finished." Nevertheless, two or three days subsequent to a 



burial they place a stone on the tomb to ward off the -Spirit of the 



Mountains. Priests and altars there were none ; they seemed 



180 



