FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



instrument of slender bamboo strips made to vibrate upon the 

 teeth. This last was played by an old woman, who was also 

 mistress of the ceremonies. The air, though not very varied, was 

 soft and rhythmic. The dancers formed a ring and began from 

 their stations, alternately advancing and withdrawing their legs. 

 Presently the villagers, male and female, gathered behind the 

 circle and commenced to beat time loudly with their feet. Now the 

 ancient Fury who led the orchestra stepped into the centre. With 

 her commanding stature, parchment-wrinkled face, grisled locks 

 crowned with a chaplet of seeds, and a collaret ot bears' teeth 

 and claws gleaming upon her breast, she was the personification 

 of a witch. Faster and wilder grew the measure. The men who 

 circled round her seemed under a spell, their heads thrown back, 

 their eyes fixed, their hair Hying, lost to all sense save that of 

 motion. It needed our intervention to bring them back to earth ; 

 so we despatched them to practise reality in road-mending against 

 the morrow. 



The people told me they had no priests, and that when any- 

 one died they put his arms and implements near his grave, that 

 his spirit might miss nothing in its flight towards the mountain- 

 tops, beyond which they knew no farther resting-place. 



The dwellings in the ne.xt village were ranged alongside each 

 other under a common roof, with a central rectangular court for 

 combined defence against attack. As a consequence of so many 

 families living together, the greatest laxity of morals seemed tc 

 prevail. As for the chief he had only four wives ; the fifth was 

 lately deceased. Amongst this branch of the Lissous incom- 

 patibility of disposition is sufficient cause for separation, and either 

 party is then free to marry again. 



At night the dance was again readily organised, to the delight 



•97 



