FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



Here at Loza the Loutses were again in evidence, and night 

 and day ten men watch on the brow of the hill to signal their 

 approach. In the morning we were witnesses of a thank-offering to 

 the Spirit of the Earth on behalf of an old woman recovering from 

 illness. On the ground in front of the sufferer's door had been set 

 up a small wooden framework model of a house with a bough stuck 

 at each support. The structure covered some saucers of seeds and 

 cakes, and behind it was arranged a measure of rice with two cups 

 of tchaotiou upon it, and a distaff, the thread of which was twined 

 round the frame. A coarse paste effigy of the Spirit presided over 

 the whole. Before it was a basket containing a straw and three 

 vertical bits of wood. An old tongpa (Lissou sorcerer) squatted 

 beside it, muttering incantations. In one hand he grasped a fowl, 

 which he first sprinkled with a twig dipped in the libation, while he 

 recited the names of the spirits invited to the feast. Then, having 

 opened the fowl's throat, he smeared the idol and the posts with the 

 blood, and applied feathers to the parts thus anointed. The bird 

 was then plucked and thrown into a pot, and the repast was ready 

 tor the invisible guests. For his own portion the wizard received 

 the plates of rice. 



During the next two days the valley opened out and cultivation 

 increased, with splendid walnut, chestnut, and peach trees, the fruit 

 of the latter unfortunately not yet ripe. Villages were numerous ; 

 and side by side with our old acquaintances the Lamasjens we met 

 with yet another tribe, the Mossos, of whom more hereafter. 



It was now that we suddenly descried, on the far side of the 



river, some black tents, whose peculiar form, as well as the thick 



smoke they emitted, did not leave us long in doubt as to their 



owners. They were Thibetan ; and their presence at this spot 



assured us that we were within a few days of the land of the 



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