FROM TALI TO TSEKOU 



ourselves and our belongings for seven and a half taels, and a 

 day and a half to complete the job. The men were delighted at 

 the prospect, and were ready to joke now over a scare they 

 had had from some falling stones that morning, when the bold 

 Fa loosed off his gun plump into the thicket, and swore he heard 

 the robbers scampering. 



In the evening bonfires blazed in the villasfe in honour of the 

 Hopatie (fire, wood, fete), the S. Jean of China, when each family 

 invoked a favourable harvest. The flames lit up the orange-trees, 

 the palms gleamed steely blue, and the red flowers of the giant 

 pagoda-trees returned the glow as we kept the feast of Hopatie 

 by letting off crackers which the people gave us. 



It was rather a ticklish sensation to be launched upon the 

 swirling Mekong in a crank dug-out i6 feet long, paddled by 

 four men. The waters were on the rise ; another day and the 

 boatmen would not attempt the crossing. As it was, great care 

 was needed to prevent the frail craft getting broadside on to 

 the rush ; and Joseph, who loved not water frolics, uttered 

 a fervent Deo gratias when the exciting moment was safely past. 

 The mules were transferred by towing. 



From here, Roux and I, with Joseph and three men and pack 

 mules, set forward in light order. Briffaud continued with the 

 caravan, to rejoin us at Tsekou. Upon the left bank we fell 

 in with a young Christian of Kampou, returning from Hsiao-Ouisi. 

 and engaged him at once as guide and servant. The way W'as 

 good, wide, and free from scrub, having been prepared for the 

 passage of the mandarin of Ouisi. After so long clambering over 

 worse than goat-paths, with the river always within sound on 

 our right, it seemed strange to be walking at ease on the level, 

 hearkening to it roaring on our left. We passed through the 



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