FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



of Tchamoutong on the right bank of the Salwen, and pronounced 

 the Lamas well disposed towards us ; but added that the mules 

 could not pass beyond that point, and that we should be obli<red 

 to go two days farther down the river to find a practicable route 

 to the west. 



At Tionra, where we were only five hours' march from the 

 Salwen, we were glad of a day's halt in the regained warmth of 

 the sun. The Loutses here were mild-mannered and hospitable, 

 but wretched and dirty in the extreme. Their physical attributes 

 were, well developed but receding foreheads, the countenance 

 larger than the Thibetans, with eyes not oblique like the Chinese, 

 and the facial angle rather sharp. The women were little round- 

 about beings. 



The 2ist and 22nd (September) were employed in the passage 

 of the Salwen. All our party were in high spirits, and the cattle 

 rested. At the request of the men, the mules were given a hash 

 of raw fowls and salt, avowed by the Thibetans to be a rare 

 pick-me-up for beasts of burden. We ferried over in skiffs about 

 16 feet long, hollowed out ot trunks of trees. Prom two to 

 four men manoeuvred them with small oars. The crossing was 

 an easy matter compared with that of the Mekong at Halo ; 

 there were no real rapids here, and counter-currents could be 

 taken advantage of The temperature of the water was much 

 the same as that of the Mekong at the same height, being 60' 

 Fahr. ; but a neighbouring tributary from the mountains registered 

 nearly 6° higher. 



On the right bank we received a messenger from the Lamaserai 



of Tchamoutong, distant now only a few miles, who announced that 



the superior had under him seventy-six Lamas (" Red Hats "), 



that he was afraid to come himself to meet us in con.sequence of 



264 



