FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



from the others that it was sugar. The children of Annam. at 

 least the Tonkinese, know only ice, which they call in their picture- 

 language "stone- water." 



At daybreak I had from my tent door a glorious sight. The 

 whole valley of the Sal wen lay stretched before me, a sea of cloud, 

 with here and there a detached wreath of vapour floating feather- 

 like above in the rays of the sun. The great dividing range 

 betwixt the Mekong and the Salwen upheaved its grey mass with 

 sharp-cut edges against the sky, conspicuous in which a single 

 summit stood forth dominant. Garnier Peak was invisible from 

 here, but we could distinguish a lesser rock in the chain, to which 

 we had given the name of the Dent de Djewan. Little by little 

 the mists rose like a curtain from below and blotted out the scene, 

 which remained only as a vision of the dawn. 



A stiff climb still separated us from the col, and occupied the 

 morning. Once on the other side, the descent was as rapid and 

 slippery as the seat of one's trousers could desire. We brought up 

 at the village of Tamalou, Tamalo, Tamalopoula, or even Poulalo ; 

 each variation having been used to designate to us the group ot 

 seven hamlets that here dotted the banks of the river Poula, 

 affluent to the Salwen. Henceforward more protracted halts were 

 imperative, owing to the necessity, now that we were on foot, of 

 providing supplies for some days in advance, and extra followers to 

 carry them. 



We had first to re-establish communication with our mules ; for 

 which purpose twelve men were despatched to bring up the remain- 

 ing loads, with directions to send back the animals under escort to 

 Tsekou with a few cases not absolutely indispensable, consigned to 

 Father Dubernard. Great difficulty was experienced in enlisting 



additional porters. We had personally to beat up the huts and 



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