FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



part, and they vanished like a Might of sparrows. Little by little 

 they gained confidence, but great persuasion was required to 

 induce a few to act as carriers. 



From a hill, on the 17th (October), we opened out the moun- 

 tains formerly descried from the pass above the Kiou-kiang. 

 Dense woods grew right up to the base of their crowning bas- 

 tions, which were precipitous, though often flat-topped. They 

 were named the Moutentekie rocks. 



This valley of the Kiou-kiang, which we had now been 

 threading for several days, with many more to follow, gave an 

 impression of greater size than that of the Mekong, since, 

 although narrow at the bottom, it was bounded by mountains 

 of receding gradients, each with its own forest species, from 

 palms below to ilex and rhododendrons above. It is one of the 

 peculiarities of the scenery of the Upper Irawadi to find these 

 clear rapid waters, like Swiss torrents, fretting their course 

 through tropical vegetation. The region is little inhabited, and 

 dwellings, whether single or in small groups, are invariably 

 about the middle zone of altitude. Culture is evident only in 

 occasional narrow strips of buckwheat, millet, or maize, and 

 thir-n merely in sufficient quantities to supply the most meagre 

 necessity. 



On the 1 8th (October) we reached the foot of a waterfall, 

 sighted on the previous day, which fell from a height of 200 

 feet on to a smooth rock. With its flashing drops and iridescent 

 spray amid the green foliage, it was like a diamond pendant in 

 its casket. A side torrent had to be crossed, with no more 

 bridge than a couple of slippery bamboos. Most of us crawled 

 gin^t:rly over unencumbered. But two of our men rashly ven- 

 tun d on it at once. I heard the rotten saplings crack, and was 



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