FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



•ceed. Hardly above the swirl three ratans swuno^ loose from 

 a post on either bank, but not tautened for a rope bridge. 

 The river was in flood. The pebbles on the margin were 

 covered with big black wood - bugs, seeking safety from the 

 swollen current ; we crushed them as we sprang from stone to 

 stone, and they emitted a fetid odour. But the Kioutses stooped 

 to gather and devour them. While cnmchlng these tasty bon-bons, 

 they further encouraged us by explaining that the l)u-tchu-mu was 

 usually crossed by a tin)- raft, which, under existing conditions, 

 -was out of the question. 



"What is to be done, then?" we asked. "When the waters 

 are out," replied the\-, "we stay at home." 



A Thibetan, one of the three brothers, volunteered to make 

 the attempt by the slack-rope, for which service of danger we 

 offered a reward. The night now falling, the venture was deferred 

 till daylight, and we camped where we were. 



Not long after, 1 noticed the men retiring higher into the 



woods to sleep. Looking out of the tent, I perceived the water 



rising rapidly round us : it was high time to beat a retreat, if we 



did not wish to wake up in the river. In the darkness and 



confusion of rushing streams, it was no easy matter to clutch our 



belongings and make a hasty escape on all-fours up the channeled 



bank. The camp was in dismay. W^e found Nam among his pots, 



swearing and wailing by turns. "Master Doctor! Master Sire! 



Annamite no way make dinner, — no China way!" (by "China" 



he included all that was neither Annamite nor French). " Don't 



cry, Nam, we'll do without ; " we consoled him like a child. 



Finally, we gained the shelter of a big rock, and there, with the 



help of the men's tent and a fire, while the rain kept up a deluge 



without, we passed the remainder of the night huddled together 



286 



