FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



We were shaken out of sleep on the 31st (October) by an 

 appalling crash. One of our men thinking to make a speedy 

 and unusually safe bridge, had felled an immense tree on the 

 opposite side, which came near to crushing the whole encamp- 

 ment in its fall. Much more effectual was the work of the 

 Kioutses : planting bamboos two by two X-wise in the river- 

 bed, and hanging on to the farthest by their toes, in a very 

 short time they had a line of trestles across and a light 

 causeway laid. The skill of these savages was marvellous ; I 

 question if civilised engineers with the same lack of imple- 

 ments would in two hours have thrown a bridge o\'er a torrent 

 at least 32 yards wide. The Dublu crossed, we proceeded up 

 the left bank of the big river. 



Thanks to the exertions of our forerunner Seran-Sell, the 

 inhabitants of the vicinity here met us with some food, for which 

 barter was the only form of purchase. Anio proved himself 

 irresistible in the role of pedlar, would tap the vendors on the 

 shoulder, make them laugh, and descant on the beauty of the 

 coveted trinkets. It was the women who showed the greatest 

 avariciousness. They seemed more independent than in most 

 parts of Thibet, and on an equal footing with their husbands. 

 Most of them were small and ugly, though the tattooing else- 

 where prevalent was represented only by a blue mark on the 

 lower lip. We took advantage of the general satisfaction to beg 

 a fill for our pipes. I could not helj^ laughing at being reduced 

 to mendicancy from savages, with a fair prospect of sinking to 

 yet lower straits. 



On the 1st (November) the offer of my spoon secured us 

 the services of a competent guide, under whose direction we at 

 once transferred ourselves to the other (right) side of the river 



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