KHAMTI TO INDIA 



Upon the throne a little wrinkled beardless old man was 

 seated. He had on a white vest and a " langouti " (species 

 of kilt) of mauve silk ; a pillow and tobacco jar were beside 

 him, and a spittoon and a long pipe at his feet. Before 

 him were planted two gilded umbrellas. The whole was the 

 monarch. 



We were invited to seat ourselves on the floor in front of his 

 majesty, with his majesty's son upon our right, and a group of 

 five or six old men who had the air of councillors or notables of 

 the place. The rest of the hall was filled with an audience of 

 attendants and general rabble, in the backo^round of which 

 appeared the top-knots of several women, while some of our 

 Thibetans gazed on the scene with open-mouthed wonder. Apart 

 from the pomp of the reception, I was struck with the familiarity 

 of the people, who chatted with the members of the royal party 

 quite unconcernedly. It was not so in the Laos States. The 

 king's son addressed his sire in a long speech, in which we sup- 

 posed he was declaring who we were and whence we came. The 

 presents were then deposited in a tray before the throne. The 

 king rejoined by putting a few short questions to us directly 

 Who had shown us the way ? Did we come of our own will, or 

 were we sent by anyone ? At Tonkin, how were the children ? 

 the old men ? Were the people rich ? F'inally, he asked by what 

 route we desired to reach Assam. 



The travelled minister had already taken our names as a 

 souvenir. The wary Joseph for his own part gave an alias, 

 alleging that he had found it a wise precaution when dealing 

 with a mandarin. 



In the conversation, as was natural. Tonkin took chief place. 

 We did endeavour to explain that France was at a greater distance ; 



3^7 



