KHAMTI TO INDIA 



evidently been based upon relay porters and light order. From 

 this, the extreme village, then, we were confronted with fifteen to 

 eighteen days' march through unpeopled mountains with tired 

 followers. And, as necessary preliminaries, we must lay in extra 

 rice, thereby increasing the loads, and invent reliefs to carry 

 them. It was a large mouthful to swallow, but we were in 

 for it. 



On the 27th (November), as if in answer to our presenti- 

 ments, the early mist rolled back, and disclosed the mighty barrier 

 awaiting us. The sunrise effects upon its snowy topmost line and 

 among its peaks and chasms were superb. As morning advanced, 

 the belated porters came in by twos and threes, having slept 

 where night overtook them, without shelter, fire, or food. They 

 were quite discouraged. Ills rarely come singly, and we presently 

 discovered that three of the Kioutse carriers had decamped at 

 daylight. One result of this defection was the interruption of our 

 link of intercourse with our guide, which had henceforth to be 

 carried on by signs. The rest of the day was expended in 

 unremitting efforts to recruit our carriers from the villagers. 

 Fearing lest they should imagine they were being pressed for 

 corvee, I gave them to understand they would be well paid. I 

 need have been under no anxiety on this score; the Kioutses 

 were quite alive to our straits, and demanded five rupees per 

 man per diem, which terms we perforce conceded. As an 

 appropriate culmination to the day's adversities, several of our 

 own men went down with a bout of fever. I treated them with 

 quinine and kola. 



Some of the people of this part smoked opium, though not in 

 the Chinese fashion. They cut up a bit of the sodden wick already 

 mentioned, and boiled it in a little water. Then chopping very 



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