FROM TONKIN TO INDIA 



temptation ; we had thirteen days' food left, and the tjuide declared 

 there were fifteen stages at least before we could hope to reach 

 a village. We therefore did not hesitate, but took one basket, 

 and left some rupees in its place. During the day we passed 

 a crest of 6,175 feet. More evidence of tigers abounding; by 

 the site of our camp lay the scattered relics of some traveller, 

 said to have been eaten. 



2nd (December). — Looking out through the trees on a hilltop, 

 we perceived, right before us, the great chain of separation between 

 the basins of the Irawadi and the Brahmaputra. It appeared of 

 great altitude, and snow covered its rocky summits. In the north- 

 west, at the head of the valley into which we were about to descend, 

 the guide pointed out a dip in the range as the pass over which 

 our route would lie. To counteract the pleasure which the sight 

 gave us, a number of misfortunes assailed us at once, and we saw 

 that Fate was not going to admit us into India without protest. 

 Roux dragged himself into camp under a sharp access of fever 

 which had followed a nig-ht chill. Briffaud also was on the sick- 

 list from a similar, though slighter, attack. By the afternoon 

 Joseph and two others were hors dc combat with ailments and 

 wounds. A half-day halt had to be called. 



To further curtail our baggage, my valise was ne.xt to go. 

 .Some of its contents we put into a lottery for the men, to keep 

 up their spirits. The wag Petalon drew the chief prize, a pair 

 of double glasses. As for my poor litde volumes of V. Hugo 

 and de Musset, my companions for many a month, it was with a 

 pang that I saw their leaves help to kindle a fire for barbarians ; 

 the bird labels and photograph slips were transformed into quills 

 for the ears of the Kioutses, and the pages of a dictionary went 



for cigarettes. 



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