WINE-MAKING IN CALIFORNIA. 211 



where it touches the number on the stem of the instrument. 



The must should not be less than twenty-two or higher 

 than twenty-five, to make a good, light white table wine or 

 claret. But there is a certain difference in varieties, which 

 should be borne in mind. Some varieties ripen irregularly, 

 and have quite a number of overripe berries; while others 

 are hardly ripe enough. The Zinfandel is one of these, and 

 as these shriveled berries contain hardly any juice, but rather 

 dried sugar or caramel, the sacharometer shows less sugar in 

 these than they really contain. The Zinfandel should be very 

 ripe, to make as full flavored and smooth a wine as it will, if 

 properly handled. In testing such grapes, always count from 

 i u to 2 more., than the instrument shows. If such Zinfandel 

 must show 23 count it 25, and your grapes are ripe enough. 

 If it does not show this, wait with the vintage until it does, 

 except in abnormal seasons, when they will hardly come up 

 to it, and yet may commence to rot, which is a sure sign that 

 they should be picked. In Burger again, and a few others, 

 you can hardly expect more than 20 to 22, even when very 

 ripe, and it would be unwise to wait longer. The remedy in 

 these cases will be to blend with a heavier wine, although 20 

 being equal to about 10 per cent, alcohol in the fermented 

 wine, is really heavy enough for an ordinary light wine. 



In this connection, let me impress upon my readers the 

 importance of a succession of varieties, from early to late, so 

 that they will not be crowded by one variety which ripens at 

 the same time, and of which they would be forced to pick 

 some hardly ripe enough at first, while the last would be over 

 ripe. Have a succession of, say six varieties in about equal 

 quantity, so that you can take a week for each, and do it 

 justice. There is one great trouble, with which large winer- 

 ies, who purchase grapes in addition to their own product, 

 have to contend with; they cannot control the ripeness of the 

 grapes, nor the supply each day, as well as the individual, 



