WINE-MAKING IN CALIFORNIA. 283 



the actual practice of this method, the effect on the tempera- 

 ture will depend greatly upon the nature of the grapes so treat- 

 ed. The small-berried, thick-skinned Pinots, to which this 

 treatment is chiefly applied in France, will in general gain the 

 benefit .of a slower fermentation, but in application to such 

 grapes as Zinfandel, Charbono, and similar delicate-skinned 

 grapes, the practice seems to present no advantages. Unless 

 a strict measure is observed in the pounding, in the case of 

 very juicy grapes, a certain proportion is sure to escape crush- 

 ing altogether. 



No. 564. The " go-as-you-please" method of many early 

 and some contemporary wine-makers, in which the pomace 

 was allowed to rise to the top and stay there to the end, ex- 

 posed to air, mould and vinegar flies, was, of course, intended 

 only to illustrate " how not to do it." The pomace-cap was 

 for most of the time emerged from one and a half to two 

 inches above the must, and began to acetify so soon as the 

 violent fermentation was over; the temperature in the pomace 

 rising as high as 89 on the fourth day. But in the absence 

 of any stirring-in of the pomace, the fermentation in the must 

 below was slow in completing itself, and a slight action con- 

 tinued into the eleventh day. By that time a generation of 

 vinegar-fly maggots had developed and was making the 

 emerged pomace look very lively; in pressing, some animal 

 juices inevitably mingled with the wine, but the latter showed 

 no obvious defect at the time of pressing, and its taste was 

 that of a more advanced product than any of the others. Its 

 subsequent history remains to be seen. 



No. 562 was fermented under precisely the same treatment 

 as No. 561 (that is, with floating cover, and thrice daily fou- 

 lage), except that the temperature was, on an average, 13 

 lower, that is, 62. It started slowly; its maximum tempera- 

 ture was reached about twelve hours later than in those fer- 



