212 IN THE GUIANA FOREST. 



that the dense carpet of vegetation can by no 

 means remain idle. 



If it were not for the creeks which meander 

 through the swamp any attempt to penetrate 

 would be hopeless except at the end of a long 

 dry season, but by means of these natural drains 

 we can enjoy the sight of nature's handiwork with- 

 out much difficulty. Perhaps we may approach it 

 through a mangrove swamp or a line of tall trees 

 overhanging the lower reaches of the creek. Here, 

 as in the forest proper, the dark waters are shaded, 

 but the arcade is not so dark nor so clear from 

 obstructions. Not only are the trees interesting 

 from their variety, but the wealth of climbers, 

 epiphytes, and parasites make every turning appear 

 more beautiful and interesting than the last. The 

 current is very strong, and at each bend the stal- 

 wart negro boatmen have to strain at their paddles 

 in a way that conclusively proves its power. Now 

 we are at a standstill for a minute or two, as the 

 stream appears to resent our intrusion and comes 

 round a little headland with amazing rapidity. 

 Sometimes we are even driven back among the 

 thorny bushes, and have to look out that our faces 

 be not scratched. On we go, however, although 

 but slowly, until the current becomes weaker, and 

 we emerge from shade into bright sunlight At 



