WILD DUCKS 127 



the bleeding. Some use boric acid or powdered calomel. 

 The cord should be removed a few days later, when the 

 wound is healing. Some advocate removing only part of 

 the joint so as to leave about half of the primaries, allowing 

 the bird to fly a little, though not high. This is so it can 

 escape better from enemies, and is on the theory that it will 

 feel more contented and be more likely to breed. I confess 

 to being rather dubious about this, as birds partly pinioned 

 are more apt to escape and perish. 



Pinioning Young. Pinioning the young is a very simple 

 affair. The best time to do it, if they are in good condition, 

 is when they are from four days to a week old. Should they 

 seem delicate, it is better to wait till they are thriving. At 

 the early period there is hardly any blood in the wing, and 

 most operators simply snip off the joint, dip the end in the 

 acid preparation, and let the bird go. Hardly a drop of 

 blood escapes, and the youngster seems to suffer very little 

 pain or inconvenience. Some use the ligature as above, and 

 this must be done if the operation is much delayed. 



Trapping. General trapping of vermin in the vicinity 

 should be carried on, and traps set outside the wire, as de- 

 scribed in Part I. A few of the posts of the fence should be 

 continued to the height of about a dozen feet, and small 

 round spring traps set on top for visiting hawks and owls. 

 The great horned owl is very destructive of ducks, and one 

 should get busy at the first sign of his presence. 



Food for Adults. All breeders use grain as the principal 

 food, with some variations, and usually some forcing food 

 during and before the breeding season. This is frequently 

 a rather rich mash with some beef or fish dried scrap, or else 

 some form of fresh fish food, and green vegetation also. 

 Adult ducks are commonly fed morning and night. 



The grain used may be ordinary mixed grain or scratch- 



