SMALL FRUITS. S3- 



either in autumn or spring, taking the growth of the season 

 with root, and cutting the stem to four inches of the crown 

 of the root. Plants, the growth of the early season, may 

 be taken up and transplanted by removing most of the 

 foliage, as with the strawberry. The soil best suited to 

 grow the finer varieties, is a rich deep loam, where there 

 is moisture, but such drainage that water will not stand. 



Soils and locations unfavorable can be made good by 

 deep culture, and by placing at the bottom of a deep 

 trench along the row line, coarse barn-yard manure or 

 leaf litter. Then, after transplanting, mulch the surface 

 with any refuse straw or hay. Generally an open airy 

 location is advised, but where shade can be given without 

 exhausting the soil, by trees, it is desirable, and especially 

 with the southern portions of our States and the valley 

 regions. The systems of growing vary, and perhaps are 

 equally profitable. Most planters grow the plants three 

 feet apart each way, with two to four canes to a hill, ac- 

 cording to the soil. Some keep them upright by stakes 

 and wires, others by simply bending the bearing cane in 

 spring, to form arches along, leaving the present years to 

 grow upright, then cutting away yearly, or scon after the 

 crop is gathered, the last bearing canes. 



Hardiness of varieties is a feature that greatly depends 

 on location. In Philadelphia, parts of New Jersey, the 

 south shore of Lake Erie, and the eastern shore of Lake 

 Michigan, most of the foreign varieties and their Ameri- 

 can seedling offspring, generally prove fruitful without the 

 laying or bending down and covering. So also there are 



