24 



HOW TO EAI8E ONIONS. 



Peruvian guano on one hundred rods of ground, where 

 corn had been raised the previous season. From this 

 piece I, or rather my boys, one ten, and the other not 

 twelve, took four hundred bushels of onions. These 

 were planted Ilx5 inches. Whether like satisfactory 

 results could have been obtained by repeating the ex- 

 periment, I can not say, as I have not had an oppor- 

 tunity of testing the matter since. After your dress- 

 ing is properly worked in, and ground well raked over, 

 you are ready for planting, which is done in various 

 ways, according to the fancy or necessity of those who 

 cultivate this crop. If you are purposing to bunch, 

 you want more seed in the hills than if intended for 

 barreling, or selling by the bushel The same is the 

 case if you wish to obtain large-sized tubers, without 

 so much regard for quantity. For a number of years, 

 (thirteen I believe,) I planted a piece containing one 

 hundred and sixty-six rods, 11x11 inches each way, 

 calculating for six or eight seeds in a place, with satis- 

 factory results as to crop Unless the soil is very easily 

 worked, and comparatively clear from weeds, I would 

 not, for field-culture, recommend any thicker planting, 

 as the fingers have to do the work of a hoe, which 

 is fatiguing, and also requires much time. 



I have planted 11x5 inches on clean land, but 

 somehow did not find my interest in doing it, as more 

 seed and more time was required in after cultivation, 

 and not a satisfactory increase of crop. I have drilled 

 with seed-drills in continuous rows ten inches asunder, 

 plants within an inch or two. Time is saved in plant- 

 ing, but I like the old method of putting down with 

 the fingers, unless you have a very favorable piece for 

 drilling in. I have dropped three fifths of an acre in a 

 day, and have known those accustomed to it to drop 

 an acre. Experiments will soon decide which method 

 is best. If your soil is weedy, I would recommend 

 covering seed with sand, unless the soil is already too 

 sandy. A table spoonful of white sand marks the 

 hill, and you can work the earth sooner than if not 

 sanded, and again, the seed will germinate quicker, 

 getting start of the weeds. Quite a number of 

 varieties of the onion present themselves from which 

 to make a selection, only a few of which I can speak 

 of from experience. For field culture for distant 

 markets, the R I. red or "Weathersfield onion is con- 

 sidered decidedly the best, as it yields as well as any, 

 and keeps decidedly the best, which is one great item 

 of value, as all will testify who have dealt in the 

 article. The Danvers onion, a yellow variety, is quite 

 popular among growers in the vicinity of Boston, and 

 they claim for it superior flavor as well as good keep- 

 ing qualities ; yet I could never have them as sound 

 in spring as the red onion. The white or silver-skin 

 onion is a favorite with marketmen and consumers, 

 from their being nice-looking, and of superior flavor 

 not so strong as the red. A serious objection to these 

 id their liability to decay and the necessity, of course, 



for a ready market and quick consumption. The three 

 varieties I have named are all sufficient for you to 

 select from, according as your market may require. 



As soon as your onions show themselves above the 

 surface, commence hoeing and weeding, as the weed,* 

 will surely give you great trouble if you do not 

 Don't allow a weed in the hill if you wish for success 

 The frequency of going over your fields will depend 

 upon the rains and foulness of your soil you may fix 

 it in your mind that you can not stir the soil too often. 

 Leisure moments can be profitably spent on an onion- 

 bed. 



The time of gathering the crop is important, and re- 

 quires good judgment as well as experience. Portions 

 of the hills as well as portions of the field will ripen 

 earlier than others. I the first ripe are suffered to 

 remain until the others that are not ripe are dead, the 

 first will have sent out new roots, which disfigure 

 them much, and the interior of the onion will com- 

 mence growing again, and send up sprouts if time 

 enough is allowed ; if not, these are the first to sprout 

 and rot, when gathered in. I keep a good watch of 

 my crop, and as soon as the first indications of a second- 

 growth are manifest, I pull all up and lay in rows for 

 curing and topping. They should remain on the 

 ground until the tops are all dead, (except the bull- 

 necks,) before topping, as they are much more liable to 

 sprout and rot, if cut while the tops have sap in them. 



It is found economical in pulling to lay three rowa 

 or drills together upon the middle row, roots up from 

 the ground as much as possible, with the alternate rows 

 reversed thus : 



66666666 

 ?9?????? 



so that when you commence topping, you take the 

 onion in your left hand, which will bring the top in 

 place for the knife or sheep-shears, (which are often 

 used,) and the onion dropped in the space between 

 the two rows, thus bringing six rows or drills into 

 one. If any weeds are on the ground previous to 

 topping, hoe them up in spaces where your onions are 

 to lay, rake all off clean, for you may have to stir up 

 your onions several times previous to getting in, 

 which can be quickly done with a rake, if no weeds 

 are in the way. Cut the tops about three inches long 

 for bunching, and one inch for barreling. Cutting 

 any shorter than this, increases the chances of decay. 

 Many shippers prefer having tops two inches long, and 

 all the refuse leaves also, if perfectly dry, as on board of 

 vessel and in confined places they sweat freely, and 

 the tops and dry leaves absorb a large quantity oi 

 moisture, and thus in a measure prevent heating and 

 decay. If you have not a ready sale for your crop, 

 and find you must store them for a time, don't put 

 them in the cellar, but into some dry room above 

 ground, that will allow you to spread them, not over 

 two and a half feet deep, and as much less as you can 



