HENDERSON'S HANDBOOK OF PLANTS. 



177 



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stroyed, in order to have the monopoly, and to 

 be the only possessor of the flower in the world. 

 The recently introduced variety, known as the j 

 Pearl, is a sport, having originated on the 

 grounds of Mr. John Henderson, of Flushing, 

 L. I. Its strong habit of growth, and dark, heavy 

 foliage attracted Mr. Henderson's attention, 

 causing him to give it every chance for perfect 

 development. The result was a variety far su- 

 perior to the* parent, both in size arid number of 

 flowers, with a marked superiority in habit of 

 growth, the flower-stalks not being so tall by 

 nearly a foot as the original, a feature making it 

 invaluable for green-house culture. The Tube- 

 rose delights in a strong, rich soil, deep and 

 moist. Manure, heat, and water are essential 

 to its perfect development. For cultivation in 

 the open border, the bulbs should be planted 

 about the first of June, covering the tuber about 

 one inch with light, fine soil. No other care is 

 needed than that usually given garden plants. ; 

 The only care required is in the selection of the j 

 "bulbs, which, if kept moist and cool during | 

 winter, are liable to rot away in the center, ren- j 

 dering them -worthless for flowering. Perfect 

 tubers will always be green at the top, or at 

 least sufficiently so to show signs of life; and 

 in choosing, all others should be rejected. Fore- | 

 ing the Tuberose, so as to have the flowers from j 

 January to March, is an exceedingly difficult 

 operation, and is now but little attempted here. | 

 The plant being of tropical origin, to have it at j 

 all times in a growing state requires a high tem- | 

 perature not less than an average of 80 C ; con- 

 sequently, few ordinarily-heated green-houses ' 

 or private sitting-rooms are at a temperature 

 high enough to insure the continued and unin- 

 terrupted growth necessary to the production of 

 flowers in the dark winter months. It is, how- | 

 ever, comparatively easily forced, so as to pro- 

 duce flowers during April, May, and June, and 

 again, by retarding the bulbs, during Novem- 

 "ber and December. By the first method, the ! 

 hulbs are, about the first of January, placed 

 closely together in boxes three inches deep, 

 having two inches or so of damp moss in the 

 "bottom. These boxes are placed in some warm 

 spot, where the temperature will average 75. 

 If for green-house culture, the best place is on 

 the hot-water pipes. In about four or five weeks 

 the Tuberoses will have rooted all through the 

 moss, and they should then be potted in four-or 

 five inch pots, or planted in a bench of soil four 

 or five inches deep, and kept in a temperature 

 at no time less than 75, and flowers will be had 

 in abundance in April. For succession crops, 

 place the dry bulbs in moss, at intervals of 

 three or four weeks. The last crops will usually 

 be the best, as by May and June the tempera- 

 ture will have increased, and less artificial heat 

 will be required. If flowers are wanted during 

 November and December, the retarding process 

 alluded to is resorted to. This is done by select- 

 ing such bulbs as ire wanted, (care being taken 

 to use only such as are sound and firm. ) and plac- 

 ing them in some cool, dry place until the middle 

 of August, when the first crop may be planted, 

 either in pots or in a bench of the green-house, i 

 as described above for the spring crop. This ; 

 planting will produce a crop by November. For 

 the succession crop for December, planting must 

 be delayed until the middle of September. The 

 same high temperature is indispensable as in 

 the spring crop, namely, an average of 75. 

 The variety best for forcing is the " Pearl, ' , 



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which grows only about half the height, and has 

 flowers nearly twice the diameter of the old 

 sort; but for planting in the open ground in 

 the ordinary way, when the flowers are only 

 wanted for fall, the common double variety is 

 the best; as, being less full, the flowers open 

 better under the often unfavorably dry atmos- 

 phere that we have in October. Tuberoses are 

 often forwarded, so as to be got in flower in 

 the earlier fall months, in sections of the coun- 

 try where -the season is too short. This is done 

 exactly in the way recommended for the spring 

 forcing, by starting the bulbs in damp moss ; 

 but for this purpose the dry bulbs should not 

 be placed in the moss until the middle of May. 

 By the middle of June, when the weather has 

 become warm, and they are set out, they will 

 start to grow at once, and will in this way flower 

 from three to four weeks earlier than if the dry 

 bulb had been put in the open ground, cold as 

 it is in most of the Northern States in May. Of 

 course, it will be understood, that when the dry 

 bwlbs are placed in the moss to start, it must be 

 in a green-house, or in some place where the 

 thermometer will average 75 or 80, or they 

 will not start at all, or, at least, very feebly. It 

 will thus be seen, from the foregoing remarks, 

 that it will be utterly useless to attempt to 

 grow Tuberoses at any season unless in a tropi- 

 cal temperature, which at no time should be less 

 than 75. Many growers of this flower have 

 been sadly disappointed in the results, their 

 flowers coming single instead of double, and 

 they naturally ask the cause. We can only say, 

 there is a tendency in all sports and hybrids to 

 return to the original or type, and this plant is 

 no exception to the rule. The conditions of 

 growth may have much to do with it. We have 

 known large stocks that were wholly double one 

 year, to come nearly all single the next. We 

 cannot satisfactorily account for it, and only 

 know that the annoyance is common in every 

 place where they are grown. From a very close 

 observation, we believe much is due to poor 

 cultivation, and the best remedy is to be found 

 in giving them a very rich soil and good cultiva- 

 tion. Like many other plants, we have found 

 they do best when given a rotation of soil. 



Polyanthus. See Primula. 



Polybotrya. From poly, many, and botrys, a ra- 

 ceme; the appearance of the fertile or seed-bear- 

 ing frond. Linn. Ci-yptogamia-Filices. Nat. Ord. 

 PolypodiacecK. 



An extensive genus of tropical Ferns, some 

 very ornamental, and all requiring green-house 

 treatment. Propagated by division or from 

 spores. Mostly natives of the West Indies, and 

 first introduced in 1823. 



Polygala. Milkwort. From poly, much, and 

 ii-t'u, milk; reputed effects of the plant on cat- 

 tle that feed upon it. Linn. Diadelphia-Octandria. ' 

 Nat. Ord. PofepdooK*. 



An extensive genus of hardy annuals, herba- 

 ceous perennials, and green-house perennials, 

 found inhabiting nearly all countries. A few 

 only are considered valuable as flowering plants, 

 and these few of little interest, except to botanical 

 collections. P. Senega, Seneca Snake Root, is 

 a species common in the Middle and Western 

 States, and has considerable reputation for its 

 medicinal properties. 



Polygonatum. Solomon's Seal. From poly, 

 many, and gonu, a joint or knee; referring to 

 the numerous joints of the stem. Linn. Hexan- 

 (iri<i-Jlvno</ynia. Nat. Ord. Liliacece. 



