248 



HENDERSON'S HANDBOOK OF PLANTS. 



VIT 



what modified to meet the circumstances of par- 

 ticular cases ; and it is not to be denied that 

 good Grapes have been grown with the rows 

 running, in various directions. That the rows 

 are generally found running east and west is ow- 

 ing to the fact that ground sloping to the south 

 is usually selected for a vineyard, and in such 

 cases east and west is the proper way. For ob- 

 vious reasons, on a hillside the rows should run 

 at right angles with the slope of the hill, or 

 nearly so. Good taste and neatness will nat- 

 urally suggest that the rows should be straight 

 and even; if, however, as sometimes happens, 

 it becomes necessary to run the rows on curved 

 lines, all the lines should run parallel with each 

 other. It not only looks better, but saves labor 

 in cultivation. A straight line is as easily plant- 

 ed as a crooked one. 



There is considerable diversity of opinion 

 among cultivators as to how far apart the rows 

 should be, as well as the distances at. which the 

 plants should be put in the rows. This is ow- 

 ing a good deal to the system of training pur- 

 sued, and still more to the varieties of Grapes 

 planted. A Concord, a Highland, or a Diana 

 will require many times as much room as a Del- 

 aware. It will make a difference, too, whether 

 the Vines are grown on stakes or a trellis. Keep- 

 ing these things in view, the rows may be from 

 six to eight feet apart, and the Vines from four 

 to ten feet apart in the rows. Vines grown on 

 stakes may be planted closer than those grown 

 on a trellis. In determining these matters of 

 distance, the soil, varieties of Grapes, methods 

 of training, etc., should il 1 . be taken into con- 

 sideration. We have gone a little into detail 

 thus far, because the matters treated of form the 

 foundation of a good vineyard, and, if not done 

 at the beginning, can not afterward be reached. 

 Having prepared the ground for the reception 

 of the Vines, it will now be in order to consider 

 the kind of plants to purchase, and the way to plant 

 them. By " kind of plants " we do not mean va- 

 rieties, but the method by which they have been 

 Sroduced. Young plants are generally pro- 

 uced in four ways : 1, from single eyes ; 2, 

 from cuttings with a single eye ; 3, from cuttings 

 with two eyes, the lower one being rubbed out; 

 4, from green wood, a practice which is now 

 very generally and very properly abandoned, 

 except occasionally in the case of new and rare 

 varieties grown under glass. The single eye 

 with a shank of yearling wood (No. 2) is gener- 

 ally to be preferred. No. 1 makes a good Vine, 

 but No. 4 should not be bought if anything else 

 can be had. When No. 3 are grown in the open 

 air, the number of eyes is increased to three, 

 and sometimes four, but the plants are not im- 

 proved by it. In addition to these methods 

 Vines are also propagated by layers, which are 

 good for special purposes, but not for general 

 planting. In regard to age, we prefer a well- 

 grown Vine one year old, or, if two years old 

 one that has been cut down and grown to a sin- 

 gle cane. It is a great mistake to buy old Vines 

 and one often committed by novices. A Vine 

 four or five years old, when lifted from the 

 ground, is placed in the condition of a yearling 

 with this difference, that the younger plant will 

 always make a stronger and bettergrowth. And 

 we may add that we prefer a well-grown pot- 

 vine to any other. The great object is to get a 

 young Vine well furnished with ripe fibrous 

 roots. 



Having procured the Vines, the next operation 



vrr 



will be the planting. The roots should be placed 

 from five to eight inches beneath the surface, 

 according as the soil is light or heavy, the 

 greater depth being for light, sandy soils. Dig 

 a hole sufficiently deep, and large enough to al- 

 low all the roots to be spread out in a natural 

 position, and it is well to elevate the soil a little 

 in the middle of the hole. Have at each hole 

 some good fine soil. Trim up all decayed and 

 injured roots; then spread them out in the hole, 

 and let your assistant sprinkle some of the fine 

 soil over the roots, while you work it in with 

 your hands firmly till the roots are all covered, 

 and the hole may then be filled up with the 

 spade. Next cut the cane down to two or three 

 eyes or buds above the surface, and the plant- 

 ing is completed. A little practice will enable 

 one to do all this rapidly, and do it well. It is 

 better to put a light stake at each Vine while the 

 planting is being done, as the roots will be in- 

 jured and displaced if done afterward. If the 

 weather should be dry, the roots may be watered 

 as soon as set, and before the hole is filled up, 

 or some litter may be spread on the surface. Do 

 not commit the too common mistake of putting 

 manure in contact with the roots when planting ; 

 it does more harm than good. ' If there should 

 be two layers of roots, gather the upper layer in 

 your hand, and hold it there till the bottom 

 layer has been covered, and then spread it out 

 and cover it. This little extra labor will be well 

 repaid in the future growth of the plant. 



In regard to the best time to plant there is 

 some difference of opinion; but, as a rule, we 

 prefer to do it in the fall and cover the Vines. 

 There is usually more time to do it in the fall, 

 and it is consequently better done. The Vines 

 are at this time in better condition for handling, 

 and suffer less from exposure of the roots ; and 

 many other reasons might be added. In the 

 spring there is always much work to be done; 

 the Vines are received in a bundle, have, per- 

 haps, heated on the way, the buds have swol- 

 len, and in the handling many are rubbed off, 

 and usually those most wanted. The fall, there- 

 fore, would seem to be the best time to plant 

 the Vine. If not done in the fall, the Vines 

 should be "heeled in" and covered with litter. 

 In the spring they can be taken out as wanted, 

 and will not, in this way, suffer from long ex- 

 posure to the air at a time when exposure is de- 

 cidedly hurtful. From this it may be inferred 

 that it is better to purchase the Vines in the fall, 

 and of this we have no doubt. When Vines are 

 heeled in, it should be in a dry place, where 

 \vater will not be likely to settle about the roots 

 during the winter. They may be kept in a cool 

 cellar, packed in sand that is simply moist, but 

 not wet. 



Whatever system of training may be ulti- 

 mately adopted, only a single cane is grown 

 during the first year. At the time of planting, 

 the cane was cut down to two or three buds, all 

 of which should now be allowed to grow. 

 When they have attained a growth of three or 

 four inches, select the strongest one and break 

 the others off. This ,shoot must be tied to a 

 stake to prevent its loss by strong winds or 

 accident. The tying must be repeated, as the 

 young cane increases in length, till there is no 

 longer any danger of its loss. After a while 

 little shoots will make their appearance in the 

 axils of the leaves. These little shoots are 

 called laterals. These laterals should be allowed 

 to grow till the second leaf has attained about 



